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Subject:Corroded Bolt Removal Process: Headstud Horror PROGRESS
From:Bulley
Date:Mon, 3 Jan 2000 14:57:19 -0500

Thank my granddad...Cyril Bulley. He's the one that showed it to me.

Soak, Tap, Clean, Twist.

G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Corporate Communications Counselors
www.bulley-hewlett.com
Cary, NC USA
888.468.4880 tollfree

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-----Original Message-----
From:   James Ruch [SMTP:jpeterruch@HOTMAIL.COM]
Sent:   Monday, January 03, 2000 2:13 PM
To:     vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject:        Headstud Horror PROGRESS

Hi All

Well it turns out that it is possible to extract broken-off headstuds
without removing the engine; without even removing the cylinder "jugs".
It took about five hours of effort applied across a week and a half but when
that bugger started to turn... well just imagine the feeling!

Here's how I did it:

tools:

-Long (like a foot long) 3/16" drill bit
-drift punch to fit snugly in drilled hole
-square style e-z out to fit 3/16 hole
-drill bit extension (the one I found accepted the square ez out end
  snugly and tightened down with allen set screws).
-light machinist's hammer
-penetrating oil
-long center punch
-dremel-like grinding attachments to fit bit extension

Most of these procedures were done at the end of the bit extension:

1.  grind broken end of stud flat

2.  use punch to mark center of bolt -- this required a couple of tries,
grinding flat between punches that "missed the mark".  Don't compromise
here.

3.  drill stud out at least 3/4" deep

4.  apply penetrating oil, insert drift punch, and ping with hammer as
described thouroughly in recent posting on corroded bolt removal (truly
awesome technique... a million thanks)

5.  tap "extended" e-z out into hole and turn until "mated"

6.  start turning with "pulses" of torque.  If the bolt doesn't turn easily,
STOP

7.  remove e-z out, apply more oil, and more pings

8.  try the e-z out again.  If it still doesn't turn easily, apply more
oil and let it set.  Again, it took me *ten day* before the threads "let
go".

Okay... now I'm on the market for some studs.  I need a lower stud (#2 in
the torque sequence) that will fit a 1.9 l engine.  Anyone got some?
And I couldn't find torque specs in Bentley or Haynes.  Anyone know how
tight I need to put the stud into the crankcase?

Jim Ruch
85' Weekender; "Snugvagon"
Alfred, NY

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