In a message dated 01/10/2000 11:02:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Wolfvan88
writes:

> My choice would be to
>  1.  Replace it with a good modified rebuilt Wasserboxer.
>
>
>
>  >  How do you feel about the reliability issue.
>
>  I have been trying many different performance parts over the last 18
years,
> some have worked and many have not (some due to mismatching).
>  When I look at the problems of the engine-corrosion, parts breaking, FI
> parts failing, under powered (the power issue is more the type of FI system
> used than engine.  I have seen many T1 engines with a lot of power).  I
> searched for others that have done anything to the Wasserboxer, most seemed
> to either put a stock rebuild in or swapped.  I decided to apply some T1
> engine performance parts to the Wasserboxer (It is the best of the T4
engine
> in a T1 configuration, a lot of stock 1600 T1 parts can bolt right up) to
> prevent breaks.  Solid rocker arms to prevent wire clip breakage (I had a
> clip break once on my T1 1641, and a fellow list member had on break on a 2.
> 1L engine).  I went to a larger cam this normally requires heavier springs,
> but I choose to reduce the weight of the valve train with Cromoly pushrods
> and spring retainers (they weigh a fraction of the stock steel) Thus
> increasing spring effectiveness.  I also went to 1.25 ratio rockers to
> increase low-end torque to offset the loss of low end power by increasing
the
> duration of the cam.  I had my stock crankshaft counterweighted to improve
> bearing wear, oil pressure across the bearing journals, reduce case flex on
> center bearing, reduce crank harmonics and vibrations and extend life of
> bearing. I removed all restrictions to flow on both exhaust and intake- 3
> angle valve job on seats and 2 angle on valves, match porting intake and
> exhaust, K&N air filter, DynoMax Turbo muffler, match ported the oil pump
to
> the case and blueprinted it.  I spent many hours cleaning the case to
> eliminate possible leaks.  I am using quad tip Bosch platinum plugs to
ensure
> a complete burn. New hoses and plastic cooling parts to prevent possible
> breaks and engine loss.  Complete race balance of all rotating engine parts
> as a unit.  Lightened flywheel- reduce rotating weight due to added weight
by
> counterweights and the harmonics are now balanced through the
counterweights
> and not by the flywheel.
>
>  I feel that the engine is much more reliable than simply a stock engine.
I
> can push the engine harder and hold it at a higher RPM without fear of a
> failure.
>  I listened to a lot of list member problems, talked to several different
> machinists, took my experience AND my BUDGET and built my engine.
>
>  If I had a bigger pocket book, more time I would have increased the stroke
> or increased the pistons (If mine were not OK to reuse I would have pursued
> and had larger pistons), changed to stainless steel valves (Keep the size
> stock, while it will increase top end, you lose bottom end).
>
>  An easy change is to increase the compression ratio is to offset grind the
> crank to the largest oversized rod bearing (.020 = .48mm).  Check the deck
> clearance and the compression is increased and a little more power (I would
> only do if the engine was ceramic coated to Protect from excessive heat).
>
>  See the attached web page I am working on about parts comparison...
>
>  As you can see I did not haphazardly through some T1 parts hoping to get a
> power boast, but choose my parts carefully to work together.
>
>
>
>
>
>  > The perennial headgasket/electrolysis/corrosion issues.
>
>  I chose to put a barrier between the aluminum heads and the rubber head
> gaskets AND reduce the radiant heat allowing the rubber parts to last
longer
> due to reduced thermal exposure.
>
>  I choose the coating from Swain Tech because most companies that I looked
at
> stress the appearance of the part and did not seem to stress the thermal
> barrier properties of their coatings.
>
>  The head sealing surfaces were coated with the ceramic coatings to put a
> barrier between the gasket and surface to eliminate the corrosion problem
on
> the heads.
>  The rubber gasket should last longer because the heat exposure has been
> reduced with the thermal barrier coating.
>
>  I am using an imported German "blue" coolant from my FLAPS = Pentosin.
>
>  I also coated ALL engine parts that touch heat in an effort to control the
> long term damaging effect of heat.
>  The coatings helps the engine to handle more horse power through better
> removal and reduction radiant in heat.
>  The life of the rubber components in the engine compartment are also
> extended because the radiant heat in the engine compartment is greatly
> reduced (In the winter I can put my hand on the alternator, it is warm, in
> the summer it is a little hotter, but the compartment temp is a lot cooler).
>
>
>  >
>  >  If one wanted to duplicate your engine mods, how could those of us
> needing
>  > an
>  >  engine get a fully prepared duplicate to your engine, ready to install.

> Is
>  > there
>  >  someone out there who will perform all these mods and stand behind them?
>
>
>
>  I do not know of any of hand.  I have talked to Boston Bob and AVP (I got
my
> AMC heads there)
>
>
>  List of mods:
>
>  counterweighted crank
>  Full engine balance: ALL rotating parts, including pressure plate
>  lightened flywheel
>  Racing valve job: Three angle valve cut on seats and two angle on valves
>  Cromoly push rods, spring retainers
>  racing valve locks, clutch bolts
>  aluminum clip on valve covers
>  modified cam- increased lift and duration
>  1.25 ratio rockers
>  blue printed oil pump
>  match ported: exhaust system, air runners, cylinder head ports
>  Super Walker Turbo muffler
>  Monza single exhaust tip
>  solid rocker arms
>  Rhino swivel valve adjusters
>  Adjustable fuel pump regulator
>  Bosch Quad tip platinum plugs
>  Swain Tech Ceramic coatings
>  Low friction coatings on valve stems, pistons
>
>  Redline synthetic engine oil and transmission oil
>  Mobile synthetic ATF used in power steering system
>  Synthetic grease used in CV joints, bearings.
>  Redline Watterwatter
>  All German parts used.
>
>  Are some of the modifications that I made.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>   >Also curious about the 5 speed...was that stock or a conversion? Is it
O/D,
>  or just an extra gear?
>
>  It is a stock .457 ring and pinion 2w drive five speed gearbox from South
> Africa.  I got it from Weddle Engineering in CA. 805-696-9665.
>  I had a heavy duty four spider diff installed.  Weddle rebuilds the "new"
> boxes because sometimes they have a problem, plus THEY handle the warranty
> work and other "sellers" will send them back to the factory.
>
>  I also had a .483 R&P five speed and the .457s fifth gear is more like a
> over-drive.  I can keep it in fourth or fifth at 55 mph.
>
>  Robert