Tim, Tim, Tim,

Fuggetaboudit!  New cylinders are $10 from the BusDepot.  If your
bleeder is that rusty your cylinders' internals can't be far behind.
Especially here in Seattle; I end up replacing mine about every three
years.  Pull back the rubber boots and I'll bet you will find some fluid
leaking.  Don't waste your time fiddling with a lost cause trying to
save $10 or $20, especially now that it is 35 degrees and raining here!

Tim King wrote:
>
> I always wondered my people had so much trouble with these things. That
> is... until it happened to me.
>
> I swear I used a method that would do G(randfather)MB proud -- lube, tap
> many times, lube, tap many times, twist  -- but it still happened. First
> (right-rear) one came off real easy. For the left rear, I used the same
> method, gave it the same easy twist and next thing I know, I'm holding the
> bleeder end in my hand. It really didn't seem like it put up much of a
> fight. Judging from the condition of the brake fluid, I'm guessing the PO
> might have failed at this point in the past and just given up. Maybe they
> damaged the bleeder at that time, so, that in it's weakened state, my mighty
> 7mm wrench was too much for it? Yeah, that's the story. I'll stick by that.
>
> At any rate, I now need to get this bleeder out so I can finish the
> bleeding. It's essentially sheared off flush with the drum. Any tips? Does
> the drum need to come off? Inquiring minds want to know...
>
> I'm nearly there. It's been a busy couple weeks of tranny remove and
> reinstall (thanks Daryl at AA for the rebuild), heater install, driveshaft
> U-joint install and other various repairs. I'll be glad to post details once
> I'm back on the road.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim King
> Seattle, WA
> 87 Syncro Westy

--
Stuart MacMillan
Manager, Case Program
800-909-8244 ext 208

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