Sounds like Karl just volunteered himself to start prototyping a 16"
conversion kit...

I honestly have to admit though that I do not share the rest of the Syncro
communitiy's obsession for the 16" Syncro...  (Which is strange, since I
have a history of overbuilt, overly-customized tall-tired 4x4 vehicles...)
I guess it would be cool, but I spend a lot more time thinking about
electrical upgrades, like how to retrofit one of those cool lighting
packages from a new Passat, where the interior lights come on when you touch
a door handle, then gently turn off after you insert the key into the
ignition.

(Aaaghh -  I think commuting in the Syncro is starting to get to me...)

Brent Christensen
'89 GL Syncro Westy "Low Boy"
Santa Barbara, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: Karl M. <thewestyman@MINDSPRING.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms

> I would be up to the task, having 20 plus years experience in all sorts of
> fabrication and welding. Also have a TIG welder that would be oh-so-nice
to
> use on these. Actually, before this recent discussion came about, I had
> eventual plans to make a set up for my own Syncro. I would not use a
sawzall
> though, way too crude for this. I have access to an industrial
water-cooled
> bandsaw that would be a better choice.
>
> Karl Mullendore
> Westy Ventures
> 1987 Westfalia Syncro TD 'Otto'
> 1988 Audi 80 Quattro
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
> To: <Syncro@onelist.com>; <VANAGON@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 2:50 PM
> Subject: [Syncro] Welding up 16" rear trailing arms
>
>
> > From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
> >
> > Ok everybody. Our knowledge of the issue of special rear trailing arms
has
> > progressed to the point that I think we now know what needs to be done
to
> > get these things.
> >
> > Option A: Buy new trailing arms from a German VW dealer for about
$2,600.
> > (including shipping)
> >
> > Option B: Have someone on the list who is credible and known to us go
into
> > the 16" trailing arms business.
> >
> > It turns out that all SDP does to make these is to cut the factory
> trailing
> > arms (think Sawzall) and then welding in a box shaped piece of metal to
> > extend their length.
> >
> > We need somebody on the list to become an expert in the fabrication of
> > these (think: super safe overkill engineering/welding).
> >
> > The operation should be exceedingly simple:
> >
> > 1. Cut rear trailing arm with sawzall
> >
> > 2. Install two halfs into a jig that keeps the alignment exactly the
same
> > as before, but so there is a 2.5" (?) space between the cut halves.
> >
> > 3. Slide a huge piece of square heavy metal into the spaces in both
halves
> > and then weld this in place.
> >
> > Who would like to become the first USA manufacturer of these?
> >
> > It would seem that the job itself is exceedingly simple, and would cost,
> > say, 1/20th as much as the dealer option.
> >
> > >X-Sender: smitht@pop.unb.ca
> > >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (32)
> > >Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:40:37 -0400
> > >To: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
> > >From: Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca>
> > >Subject: Re: [Syncro] tires/gears/speeds/RPM spreadsheet
> > >
> > > >If this is true, then possibly I boobed things by getting the 6.17
> gears
> > > >instead of 5.xxs.
> > >
> > >never!!  can't go too low.  Try changing the 4th gear ratio to Weddles
> 0.70
> > >version, for the 31" tires. I'm curious too!
> > >
> > > >hitting the battery box and I am not sure I want to find alternate
> > > >locations for the batteries. If your math is correct, and my 31"
> maximum
> > >
> > >Hmmmm, stiffer/taller springs would easily shift the suspension
downward
> > >another 3", can't see that being much of a problem clearing the boxes.
> > >Need a computer drawing/model to mess with and check fits.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >size is correct, then I would have strange gearing: my top speed on
the
> > > >highway will be 65mph or something? Yuk. I'd rather not drive on the
> > > >highway above 3900 rpm because I noticed that the oil temp goes up a
> lot by
> > > >the time you hit 4000.
> > >
> > >Yup, I like 3200, needle at 12 o'clock seems correct to me.  At higher
> RPMs
> > >the oil in sump is likely being flailed about by the crank, hence the
> extra
> > >heating (and some power loss)
> > >
> > > >I don't mind cutting and welding the rear trailing arms as per the
> recent
> > > >email on the syncro list. The implication is that that is all SDP
does
> > >anyway.
> > >
> > >
> > >Gotta watch this. OK to do but you have to re-heat treat to restore
> > >strength.  Essentially a controlled cooling down period so the metal
> > >regains it's proper strength.  Typically cut/MIG weld, then take
oxy-acet
> > >torch and heat entire region to dull red. this lets any local highly
> > >stressed areas 'relax' and get rid of the warpage stresses due to the
> > >initial welding.  Then the cool down to make sure the alloy strength
gets
> > >back to the factory design strength.
> > >
> > >
> > >bye, Tim
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Derek Drew                                            New York, NY
> > CEO & Co-Founder
> > www.ConsumerSearch.com
> > 80 South Street, 2nd Floor
> > New York, NY 10038
> > drew@interport.net
> > 212-580-6486
> >
> > Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try
every
> > avenue: 917-848-6425 (cell); 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home),
> > 202-966-0938 (Home).
> >
> >
> >
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