Derek and the rest of the list,
Does the trailing arm have to be lengthened by 20mm or does it have to get
moved out as well?  I am taking delivery of a 1986 Vanagon this weekend for
parts and my fabrication guys can certainly do a great job at this - mind
you - if someone else wanted a set of trailing arms I would make you sign
your life away - I would trust my life to their work, but, just in case, I
want to keep my house if something does go wrong.

Does anyone have a picture of the modifications - as they say - a pictures
tells a 1000 words.

I would be inclinded to think that you would neatly cut ( not with a
sawzall!! ) the plate with the four drilled and tapped holes that you mount
the break / bearing assembly to off of the trailing arm and reweld it on
20mm towards the back for the increased distance.  Again, I would really
like to see a picture!

At 02:50 PM 15/02/2000 -0500, Derek Drew wrote:
>From: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
>
>Ok everybody. Our knowledge of the issue of special rear trailing arms has
>progressed to the point that I think we now know what needs to be done to
>get these things.
>
>Option A: Buy new trailing arms from a German VW dealer for about $2,600.
>(including shipping)
>
>Option B: Have someone on the list who is credible and known to us go into
>the 16" trailing arms business.
>
>It turns out that all SDP does to make these is to cut the factory trailing
>arms (think Sawzall) and then welding in a box shaped piece of metal to
>extend their length.
>
>We need somebody on the list to become an expert in the fabrication of
>these (think: super safe overkill engineering/welding).
>
>The operation should be exceedingly simple:
>
>1. Cut rear trailing arm with sawzall
>
>2. Install two halfs into a jig that keeps the alignment exactly the same
>as before, but so there is a 2.5" (?) space between the cut halves.
>
>3. Slide a huge piece of square heavy metal into the spaces in both halves
>and then weld this in place.
>
>Who would like to become the first USA manufacturer of these?
>
>It would seem that the job itself is exceedingly simple, and would cost,
>say, 1/20th as much as the dealer option.
>
>>X-Sender: smitht@pop.unb.ca
>>X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (32)
>>Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:40:37 -0400
>>To: Derek Drew <drew@interport.net>
>>From: Tim Smith <smitht@unb.ca>
>>Subject: Re: [Syncro] tires/gears/speeds/RPM spreadsheet
>>
>> >If this is true, then possibly I boobed things by getting the 6.17 gears
>> >instead of 5.xxs.
>>
>>never!!  can't go too low.  Try changing the 4th gear ratio to Weddles 0.70
>>version, for the 31" tires. I'm curious too!
>>
>> >hitting the battery box and I am not sure I want to find alternate
>> >locations for the batteries. If your math is correct, and my 31" maximum
>>
>>Hmmmm, stiffer/taller springs would easily shift the suspension downward
>>another 3", can't see that being much of a problem clearing the boxes.
>>Need a computer drawing/model to mess with and check fits.
>>
>>
>>
>> >size is correct, then I would have strange gearing: my top speed on the
>> >highway will be 65mph or something? Yuk. I'd rather not drive on the
>> >highway above 3900 rpm because I noticed that the oil temp goes up a
lot by
>> >the time you hit 4000.
>>
>>Yup, I like 3200, needle at 12 o'clock seems correct to me.  At higher RPMs
>>the oil in sump is likely being flailed about by the crank, hence the extra
>>heating (and some power loss)
>>
>> >I don't mind cutting and welding the rear trailing arms as per the recent
>> >email on the syncro list. The implication is that that is all SDP does
>>anyway.
>>
>>
>>Gotta watch this. OK to do but you have to re-heat treat to restore
>>strength.  Essentially a controlled cooling down period so the metal
>>regains it's proper strength.  Typically cut/MIG weld, then take oxy-acet
>>torch and heat entire region to dull red. this lets any local highly
>>stressed areas 'relax' and get rid of the warpage stresses due to the
>>initial welding.  Then the cool down to make sure the alloy strength gets
>>back to the factory design strength.
>>
>>
>>bye, Tim
>
>_______________________________________________
>Derek Drew                                            New York, NY
>CEO & Co-Founder
>www.ConsumerSearch.com
>80 South Street, 2nd Floor
>New York, NY 10038
>drew@interport.net
>212-580-6486
>
>Alternate numbers for the industrious phone caller that wants to try every
>avenue: 917-848-6425 (cell); 202-966-7907 (Work), 212-580-4459 (Home),
>202-966-0938 (Home).
>
>
>
>--------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
>
>FREE ADVICE FROM REAL PEOPLE!  Xpertsite has thousands of experts who
>are willing to answer your questions for FREE.  Go to Xpertsite today
>and put your mind to rest.
><a href=" http://clickme.onelist.com/ad/XpersiteCPC ">Click Here</a>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>If you would like to unsubscribe, visit
>Syncro-unsubscribe@onelist.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

-- David Marshall                             Quesnel BC, Canada --
--    78 VW Rabbit, 80 VW Caddy, 84 VW Westie, 85 VW Cabriolet   --
--       87 Audi 5000 Quattro, 88 2.0L VW Syncro Double Cab      --
-- David's Volkswagen Home Page        http://www.volkswagen.org --
-- Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning  http://www.fastforward.ca --

Note: VOLKSWAGEN.ORG is not affiliated with VWoA or VW AG