Actually the '66 was a 1300 and had the emblem on the deck lid.  I had
one once that I bought with a siezed engine.  It had sucked an exhaust
valve (good ole #3 cylinder) that was imbedded in the piston which I
discovered as I rebuilt it.  Drove it cross country right after the
rebuild ( Santa Clara, CA to Cape Cod, MA)and each day before I set out
I'd adjust the valves as they were settling in.  You can do it in about
20 minutes once you get the hang of it.  Someone mentioned earlier to
adjust them every 30K, you really should go for every 6K.  It's easy and
critical just like changing the oil regularly.
Russ

Per Lindgren wrote:
>
> Joseph Tu wrote:
>
> > I drove a 66 beetle in high school and I did a lot of work on it too, not to
> > sure if the engines are the same exactly. I think it is a 1600 or a 1500
> > that it has, solex 34 pict carb? I dunno I used to know when I studied all
> > that stuff.
>
> The 66 is a 1500, the 71 is a 1600, but it is basically the same stuff.
>
> >
> >
> > There is no cannister filter, just a filter screen. Near the drain plug
> > there is a round plate the holds this.
>
> Actually around the drain plug, the plug sits in the middle of the cover.
>
> > I don't know if it has hydraulic lifters that year, but if
> > it doesn't you will need to adjust the valves every 30K I think.
>
> The Beetle never got hydraulic valves (well maybe during the recent years,
> together with Digifant injection and Catalytic converters), but 30k miles is too
> long interval for the valves, IMHO. I usually do the valves at each 10k kms (6k
> miles)
>
> PerL
> 87 Syncro 112i
> 68+73 aircoolers