My two cents worth here but one caveat,  I've never done this procedure
before or know of access issues.  Although not readily available, pulling a
multi filament thread from some kevlar cloth(style 500 or 285) may be all
that's needed.  it absorbs most non-5 min. epoxies very
ell( cotton/polyester won't absorb the resin as well).  if the gear is truly
nylon, perhaps using the Devcon plastic welder(methacrolate-based 2 part
glue) will do the trick.  Our Wal Mart is stocking this item again after
months of absence.  Like $2.27 for 25 ml syringe.   3500# bond according to
literature on package.   Says it will bond most plastics except
polyethylene.  It sets quickly so don't screw around once it's mixed.  Fuzzy
Q-tip should get enough of it in most any tight place.  Feel free to shoot
holes in this technique.

Max
-----Original Message-----
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@IBM.NET>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Date: Saturday, April 01, 2000 11:32 AM
Subject: Re: Rebuilding Odometer- Fair Price?

>At 10:25 4/1/2000, John Andrew wrote:
>>scoured junkyards for these and all of them seemed to be cracked.  It
seems
>>to be quite a common problem.  Probably the combination of 20 year old
>>plastic and the sun beating down on the dash.  If anyone knows of a
source,
>>I need one for my 1980 Westy.  And I have tried the super glue trick.
>
>I suspect the combination of 20 year-old plastic and improper stress
>analysis by the plastics engineers at VDO -- though it's also been pointed
>out that resetting the odo while driving will cause problems if you hold
>your finger down.
>
>Worth a try:  take the best one you have, put some 90-minute epoxy (not
>filled stuff like JB Weld) inside and outside the cavity.  Place the gear
>and tightly wind one layer of sewing thread (cotton-polyester) or similar
>around the hub.  Paint on a little more epoxy if the thread isn't
>thoroughly saturated.  If this works, you won't be getting the gear off
>without destroying it, but I don't imagine that's an issue in this case
>(ten years ago my Dad fell in love with epoxy and has used it to secure the
>most amazing things that I have had to later try to remove *without*
>destroying them.  Bah!).
>
>PS -- I don't know what the access is for string-winding with gear in
>place.  You can do it first and then install while epoxy still
>fluid.  You're going to have epoxied fingers; watch out for the gear teeth
>and wash thoroughly afterward.  I'd recommend a film of vaseline on the
>teeth just in case, but the glued portion has to be greaseless.  Brake
>cleaner will get the grease off but may attack the plastic, so keep it away
>from the teeth.
>
>PPS -- now that I'm thinking in that direction, PVC plumbing cement may
>work.  If it does (try a touch of the primer to see if it makes the plastic
>sticky -- if so you're good) you'll get a solvent-welded joint that's
>essentially one piece again.  Pressurize it by winding with thread as
>before, but maybe not so much tension.  Think this one through carefully
>before you do it -- the gear needs to be straight on the shaft etc, but
>still enough goop on the inside to grab.
>
>Steady hands help with all of this :)
>
>d
>David Beierl - Providence, RI
>  http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
>'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
>'85 GL "Poor Relation"