

| Subject: | Busted stud removal |
| From: | David Beierl |
| Date: | Tue, 16 May 2000 12:19:53 -0400 |
From the Atlas-Craftsman list... Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Corrosion as an insulator was 1/4" stud story re... Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would take that as a question to me. The 'nib' of course is the broken part of the stud. Simply, you take the small tip, 00 works the best, and tune the flame way down, but sharp blue in the middle. The actual sound of the flame as well as the appearance helps me tune it. You then point the tip of the blue portion of the flame virtually straight down or nearly so right in the middle of the broken stud. As the part goes yellow then liquid, introduce a prewarmed (nearly yellow) piece of rod (about .050 will do) and start your stalagmite puddle, back out the torch until it goes solid then repeat. I often get perfectly straight even columns this way and good results. Make sure that first drop melts into the puddle so you have a good base to build on. Don't let the flame play off to any side, else you will cook the parent material too much. Half the battle is the expansion in the stud the heat creates as the other poster so accurately noted. The other half obviously is the handle the stalagmite creates. This method actually works as well or better than EDM and particularly if the stud is hardened, where a center drill would walk off the part. Hope this helps. Another long post :>). Don McGiffin David Beierl - Providence, RI http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage" '85 GL "Poor Relation"
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