The problem you are experiencing is EXTREMELY common, and this list must
have gotten 50 or so posts describing the same problem, in the 18 months or
so I I've been a list member

The problem is often caused by the air flow meter being noisy inside, and
this basically screws up the fuel computer.

The AFM is like a potentiometer, or a variable resistor, with an electrical
contact that moves across a resistive surface, in response to air flow -
sort of like a spring-loaded weathervane. A bit or dirt or carbon will make
it perform badly - just like bad volume control will make "crackling noise"
in a radio.

The more airflow, the farther the contact moves across the surface - so the
AFM produces a voltage, proportional to the air flow.

The good news is that there are several easy solutions to this problem that
work pretty well.

My favorite, since it totally fixed my problem, and was very easy to
accomplish, and cost essentially nothing, is the following:

Get a utility knife, and some electronic spray cleaner at your auto parts
store;

Locate the AFM, and note that it has a black plastice lid - which we will
remove next;

The lid is has a slot in its perimeter, that the main body of the AFM fits
into - like a snap on lid on a margarine tub - so run a utility knife along
the edge to slice the rubbery silicone sealer that is holding it in place;

Starting at a corner, use a screwdriver and carefully pry the lid loose -
the silicone will give way slowly, so take your time;

Lid removed? Good! Now take the spray, and spray the resistive surface that
the contact runs on. Move the contact back and forth, so that it gets
cleaned too;

Let it dry naturally - avoid getting lint or dirt in it - or you'll have to
do this again sometime!

Place lid back on, and tape it shut.

I'd never done it before, and it only took me maybe ten minutes tops, and
I'm a slowpoke - very careful.

Hope this helps.

Marshall Ruskin
84 Westy "Iron Igloo"
Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada

>Hi friends,
>I am looking for some answers to bring to my mechanic. When I am driving my
>1984 1.9L, and after it warms up (8 minutes) the Van kicks back when
>cruising, or when trying to pass another vehicle. It feels like I lose
>power and then it comes back real quick, causing the van to jolt. My
>mechanic has checked my plugs and all other basic tune-up areas. He says it
>could be electric. Anyone else ever have this problem and what was needing
>some care?
>My Van is like so close to being a real nice driver. I have spent 700 plus
>on it in the past 6 months in hopes of getting a reliable vehicle. I can
>feel the satisfaction, my car hasn't felt better, but it just needs this
>thing fixed!! Thanks for any help!
>
>Dan
>