Thank you so much Mark and Marshall.  Excellent advice.  I am going to
order the new top now and I will let you know how it goes.

-
Steve

At 09:10 PM 6/5/00 -0500, Marshall Ruskin wrote:
> >Can anyone who has installed the canvas top (sounds like you have first
> >hand experience, Mark) give some pointers as to how to do it, hints and
>tips?
> >
> >I am the proud owner of a new (to me at least) '81 camper  which has a torn
> >1-window top.  I want to go to the three window top for this upcoming
> >summer of camping.
> >
> >If searched the FAQ etc as I am sure someone has made a page about
> >this.  Any hit or pointers are greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Steve
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >At 12:38 PM 6/5/00 -0700, Mark Mages wrote:
> >>If you're up for it (and think about this carefully),
> >>you can remove the pop-top canvas entirely (easy as
> >>pie) take it down to your local tent-repair shop (also
> >>easy) cough up $40 or so (still easy) have them
> >>replace it with a nylon mesh that will not become
> >>brittle in the sunlight over time, then re-attach the
> >>canvas yourself (almost impossible without a helper,
> >>and a royal pain with one..)
> >>
> >>The fiberglass screen will keep ripping.  If it is bad
> >>in one spot, then chances are the whole thing is
> >>coming apart, and you will keep patching holes til you
> >>replace it.
> >>
> >>My .02
> >>
> >>Mark
> >>
> >>--- "Chris R. Rowland" <cr_rowland@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
> >> > I think from what I have heard that cutting a
> >> > fiberglass netting patch to cover
> >> > the torn area and using needle and thread to attach
> >> > it is the best solution. I
> >> > found a kit at a local RV store made by Colghan
> >> > (sp?) with everything I needed.
> >> > I am sure the parts could be found individually;
> >> > i.e. canvas patch, fiberglass
> >> > netting patch, glue, needle and thread. The Colghan
> >> > kit looked like it had been
> >> > on the shelf awhile so I don't know if it is still
> >> > available.
> >> >
> >> > Chris
> >> >
> >> > --- Joel Cort <joel_cort@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> > > Chris,
> >> > >
> >> > > It does continue to get worse.   Mine is in bad
> >> > shape and the PO
> >> > > decided to fix the rips with duct tape -  looks
> >> > reals good ... not!
> >> > > The tape is also crinkled and ungluing. I need to
> >> > get a new screen
> >> > > and don't know how to sew the new one on.  The
> >> > Zipper part can be
> >> > > sewn on before the install but the bottom seam is
> >> > the tough one.
> >> > >
> >> > > Please let me know what you find out.
> >> > >
> >> > > Thanks
> >> > > Joel
> >> > > 89 Syncro Westy
> >> > > Rochester NY
> >> > >
> >> > > --- "Chris R. Rowland" <cr_rowland@YAHOO.COM>
> >> > wrote:
> >> > > > Thanks for the floppy mirror fixes. Mine would
> >> > flatten against the
> >> > > > side of the
> >> > > > Westy as soon as it experienced a wind speed of
> >> > 70 MPH. That
> >> > > > becomes cumulative
> >> > > > in a head wind.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > My question is regarding the screen on my
> >> > poptop. It is beginning
> >> > > > to tear and I
> >> > > > want to know what techniques to use to prevent
> >> > it from becoming
> >> > > > worse and the
> >> > > > best method of repair.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Thanks.
> >> > > > Chris Rowland
> >> > > > '85 Westy "Tinkerbell"
> >> > > >
> >> > > > =====
> >> > > > C. R. Rowland
> >> > > > cr_rowland@yahoo.com
>
>Here's a recent posting that I happened to save - I did not write it, the
>author (THANKS) appears at the end.
>
>Marshall Ruskin
>
>I checked the archives for "new canvas installation" and I found only a
>cryptic message from Ron (BusDepot) so I thought I'd share my experience.
>The short story is: "excellent quality canvas + my excellent work = great
>looking new canvas". Here's the installation/experience story:
>
>As you may recall the PPO of my van had an engine box fire and the canvas
>was ruined. The PO had a canvas shop sew up a "new canvas" but he saw no
>reason to put any windows in it. I am now about to ship the van to Cairo (I
>picked up a job there) and I wanted more air up top, so I bought a new -
>grey- 3 window canvas from Ron at the BusDepot.
>
>Re Ron's canvas IMHO it is ery good quality (one or 2 un-even stitches) Very
>good fit, very poor installation instructions. Ron should insist on better
>instructions for $185!!
>
>OK. This installation report is for my Canadian 1991 Syncro Westy. My van
>has screwed-in rails holding the canvas to the pop-top and not the million
>staples mentioned in Bentley and Ron's instructions. So the instructions
>were nearly worthless for me, but my installation was simpler in many
>regards.
>
>I'd suggest that you begin on a day when you are feeling good about yourself
>and the world, as you will need all of the patience that you can muster. I
>am a university professor (finance) and it took me about 8 to 10 hours (over
>2 days) but I was not in any hurry, in fact I loved lavishing the attention
>on my van.
>
>First I popped the top and, with an electric screw-driver, I un-screwed all
>of the screws holding the rail holding the BOTTOM of the canvas to the van.
>This was EASY. I labelled the rails as to front & back; right-front &
>left-front.
>
>I then began un-screwing the rails that held the canvas to the pop-top. I
>used a step ladder for the sides and stood in the luggage rack, I also laid
>down on the top bed and was able to reach around outside to easily unscrew
>the rails. This step is also Easy!! I'm really good at taking things
>APART!!! Care should be taken to NOT let the weight of the canvas bend the
>rails.
>
>One might be able to wiggle the old canvas up and over the top, but I
>didn't. I took the pop-top off the van as I thought that putting the new
>canvas on would be easier with the pop-top off the van and on the ground. In
>retrospect, I think I did the right thing.
>
>To remove the pop-top: At the front of the pop-top I un-screwed the 4
>nuts/bolts that hold the "push-up bar" to the pop-top. BE CAREFUL as the
>"push-up bar" is spring loaded, so prior to finally un-screwing the 4 top
>nuts/bolts, close the roof and use some heavy wire or zip-straps (I used one
>of each) to hold the "push-up bar" closed (hog-tied) for when you take the
>weight off the "push-up bar". This would be like tying your wrist to your
>armpit to keep your elbow closed.
>
>I then had a choice of un-screwing the rear of the pop-top from the rear hin
>ges (leaving the hinges attached to the van) or un-screwing the rear hinges
>from the van (leaving the hinges attached to the pop-top). I might have made
>a mistake here, your choice. I un-screwing the rear of the pop- top from the
>rear hinges (leaving the hinges attached to the van), and the re-
>installation was a PITA as there are 4 little plastic washers that
>impossibly go in behind the hinge plates & the pop-top. Be sure to collect
>these plastic washes during dis-assembly if you go this route. Also there is
>some adjustment room where the pop-top fastens to the hinges and in removing
>the pop-top, I lost this fine adjustment. It might have been easier to
>re-install the hinges to the van, but one runs the risk of scratching the
>paint. I needed about 5 minutes of help to lift the pop-top off the van. The
>van sure looked funny with that star-gazing bed up there.
>
>I then had dinner and slept for 8 hours. Next day, up-and-at-em.
>
>Nice sunny day and I had not much else to do today. After washing the
>underside of the pop-top (I used Clorox bleach & water) I turned the pop-top
>up-side-down on the grass, being careful that the skylight did not rest on
>the ground (might break). As per Ron's directions I measured the middle of
>the front canvas panel (left to right for the top and bottom) and the middle
>of the rear canvas panel (left to right for the top and bottom). My pop-top
>has a screw point dead center across the front and dead-center across back
>of the pop-top so getting the center of the canvas centred on the pop-top
>was easy. Check TWICE or you will begin screwing the canvas on up-side-down.
>Be careful when screwing the canvas back on, as I STRIPPED one of the
>plastic "nuts" with the electric screw-driver. I did all the remaining
>screws into the pop-top by hand. I screwed in the center first, then each
>end. My new canvas had no slack in the ends and it was a bit of a stretch. I
>did the same for the rear - center and then each edge. I then did the same
>for the sides, with ZERO slack in the canvas, it lined up perfectly. I lined
>up the top part of the canvas under the rail so that the black-edged border
>was totally on the outside of the rail, just touching the side of the rail.
>I didn't know if this would leave enough room at the bottom but it ended up
>being just right. I did NOT put in all of the screws at this point as I
>wanted to check the fit of the canvas top to bottom on the van. So:
>
>I again needed about 5 minutes of help to lift the pop-top back on the van,
>being VERY careful that the canvas did not catch on anything as I only had
>it held on with 12 small screws.
>
>It was easy to re-attach the front "push-up bar". I could then remove the
>straps that were holding the push-up-bar "elbow" together. The rear hinges
>were much more difficult. Remember that I took the pop-top off the hinges, 4
>nuts/bolts on each side with plastic washers between the hinges and the pop-
>top. Two of the nuts/bolts/washers went on OK, but the other 2 were
>impossible for me. So, being a university professor, Ithought I'd try some
>"thinking". I cut up some similar thickness plastic I had in the basement
>and left a long tongue on the plastic "washer" so that I could hold the
>plastic washer in place as I slipped the bolt through. I tried to align the
>adjustment to about where it had been, but I think I got it to tight, so
>I'll have to re-adjust it soon.
>
>I was really happy to see that the canvas was nearly perfect in its fit to
>the bottom where it attached to the van. I spot checked the fit with the
>bottom rails and it was going to fit OK. So I began screwing in the rest of
>the TOP screws, again being careful that the black edging was constant
>around the outside edge. I did all the screws by hand so as to not strip any
>of the plastic "nuts".
>
>Contrary to Ron's instructions, I started with the front part of the bottom
>of the canvas. I wanted this part to look perfect and if there was any
>gathering to be done, I wanted it to be in the rear. So I found my center
>mark and screwed that right under the center hole of the rail, pulling the
>canvas under the rail to made the canvas tight. I used the electric
>screw-driver for these metal screws. I then worked my way out from the
>center watching the canvas so that there were no wrinkles. The corners were
>taut as the canvas fit so tightly, it was difficult to get the canvas around
>the rail. This is NOT a criticism of the canvas quality (I wanted a tight
>fit) just a statement of fact. I used a pair of pliers to pull the canvas
>tight under the rail.
>
>I then put on the side rails and screwed in ONLY the front, middle, and rear
>screws on both sides. This was easy. The rear rail was a PITA, really tight
>and difficult to work back in there (and the sewn-in bungie cord pulling in
>the wrong direction), but I was able to get it with a lot of effort and a
>few naps :-)
>
>I then went back along the sides and pulled the canvas tight under the rail
>and screwed the canvas down under the rail. I had to re-do the center of the
>front rail to get it a bit tighter. The most canvas that I pulled in under
>the bottom rail was an inch. The cut of the canvas was nearly perfect.
>
>I can tell you that the canvas looks every bit as good as "factory new". It
>is tight all the way around and no wrinkles and 3 windows. Ron, I am 100%
>satisfied with the canvas.
>
>Next is the complete exhaust (ceramic coated) and a few other expensive
>goodies and then I'm off.
>
>Hope you enjoyed the story and I hope that this might help you.
>Malcolm Stebbins