Where do I purchase a new thermostat for the Dometic Fridge? This is the guy
mentioned on the list to turn on at ~120-130 Deg F and turn off at ~110 deg
F. Currently I am running the fan (a replacement muffin fan) whenever the fridge
is on. I also installed a small computer CPU fan above the fins on the inside
of the fridge, it helps a lot! The local RV dealer that sells Dometic fridges
was clueless! Is there an efficiency improvement if I leave the rear fan on
all the time when running the fridge?
I can't tell from http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm if the rear
cooling fins need to be a certain temp or just cooled as much as possible. I
am guessing that as long as the perc tube is hot enough to vaporize the Ammonia,
one can cool the condensor and other cooling fins as much as they want, any
comments?  Obviously running the fan inside the fridge at all times is helpfull...

 Also, I sealed the combustion chamber with Blue permatex after cleaning, now
it stays lit while driving at highway speeds.

 There have been a lot of postings lately with regards to the flame LED, mine
doesn't work now, where is the thermocouple located? It worked prior to pulling
the fridge just a week or two ago. If my memory serves correct, there is a solid
wire from the combustion chamber to the mechanical thermostat which conducts
heat from the flame to this mechanical gas flow valve (the one which rotates
and sets the flame strength). I assume when no heat is conducted through this
solid wire the gas flow valve doesn't turn on, that is why one has to hold the
"primer" down to initiate gas flow until heated.

  Is the electrical thermocouple located in this valve/thermostat or did I forget
about a wire going to the combustion chamber? I have been to David Beirl's web
site: http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
and may perform the simple modifications he suggests, but something is obviously
awry from my last pull of the fridge..

I performed the air pump modification, it lights much better now. I also used
a free re-build kit from Manchester to repair the auto-stop valve on the LP
tank, what nice folks to send me a free kit! I also replaced the regulator with
a 390 unit I believe? Thanks to whomever it was that sent me the Manchester
auto-stop rebuild tip!

Thanks!
 Ezra

on digest, please copy directly (ehall@together.net)