RE: Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find?Brent,
as I remember the FridgeMate fan does indeed come with a thermoswitch, but it is not set to switch on and off at the same temperature settings... I forget whether it is higher or lower than stock... but I decided to use stock as I figured the Dometic engineers knew best.
Bill
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: BRENT CHRISTENSEN 
  To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2000 9:26 AM
  Subject: Re: Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find?

  When I bought a replacement FridgeMate fan about a year ago, it came with a rocker switch and one of these contact thermistors.  I have not tested the temp setting on it, but I imagine it would be similar.  (My original was working fine).  The fan with the switch, bracket, and thermistor cost about $25 as I recall

  Brent Christensen 
  '89 GL Syncro Westy 
  Santa Barbara, CA 

  > -----Original Message----- 
  > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM]On Behalf 
  > Of Ezra Hall 
  > Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 1:41 PM 
  > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
  > Subject: Thermostat for Dometic Fridge (fan), where to find? 
  > 
  > 
  > Where do I purchase a new thermostat for the Dometic Fridge? 
  > This is the guy 
  > mentioned on the list to turn on at ~120-130 Deg F and turn 
  > off at ~110 deg 
  > F. Currently I am running the fan (a replacement muffin fan) 
  > whenever the fridge 
  > is on. I also installed a small computer CPU fan above the 
  > fins on the inside 
  > of the fridge, it helps a lot! The local RV dealer that sells 
  > Dometic fridges 
  > was clueless! Is there an efficiency improvement if I leave 
  > the rear fan on 
  > all the time when running the fridge? 
  > I can't tell from 
  > http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm if the rear 
  > cooling fins need to be a certain temp or just cooled as much 
  > as possible. I 
  > am guessing that as long as the perc tube is hot enough to 
  > vaporize the Ammonia, 
  > one can cool the condensor and other cooling fins as much as 
  > they want, any 
  > comments?  Obviously running the fan inside the fridge at all 
  > times is helpfull... 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  >  Also, I sealed the combustion chamber with Blue permatex 
  > after cleaning, now 
  > it stays lit while driving at highway speeds. 
  > 
  >  There have been a lot of postings lately with regards to the 
  > flame LED, mine 
  > doesn't work now, where is the thermocouple located? It 
  > worked prior to pulling 
  > the fridge just a week or two ago. If my memory serves 
  > correct, there is a solid 
  > wire from the combustion chamber to the mechanical thermostat 
  > which conducts 
  > heat from the flame to this mechanical gas flow valve (the 
  > one which rotates 
  > and sets the flame strength). I assume when no heat is 
  > conducted through this 
  > solid wire the gas flow valve doesn't turn on, that is why 
  > one has to hold the 
  > "primer" down to initiate gas flow until heated. 
  > 
  >   Is the electrical thermocouple located in this 
  > valve/thermostat or did I forget 
  > about a wire going to the combustion chamber? I have been to 
  > David Beirl's web 
  > site: http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/ 
  > and may perform the simple modifications he suggests, but 
  > something is obviously 
  > awry from my last pull of the fridge.. 
  > 
  > I performed the air pump modification, it lights much better 
  > now. I also used 
  > a free re-build kit from Manchester to repair the auto-stop 
  > valve on the LP 
  > tank, what nice folks to send me a free kit! I also replaced 
  > the regulator with 
  > a 390 unit I believe? Thanks to whomever it was that sent me 
  > the Manchester 
  > auto-stop rebuild tip! 
  > 
  > Thanks! 
  >  Ezra 
  > 
  > on digest, please copy directly (ehall@together.net) 
  > 

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