At 11:26 6/24/2000, Chris Stann wrote:
>
>Now, when I was first removing the alternator the bolt that keeps tension
>on the belt sheared.  YIKES!  Now I have a good alternator with a plugged
>hole.  There's not enough thread on the reverse side to attempt to drive
>in a bolt and drive the broken one out.  Also, there's not enough of
>broken bolt sticking out to attempt to grasp it with vice grips.

Chris, I'm confused.  Are you talking about the bolt which clamps a slotted
strap to a lug at the top of the alternator (the sliding point), or a much
longer bolt that clamps the two lugs at the bottom of the alternator into
their bracket (the pivot point)?

In either case they are not threaded into the alternator itself, but into a
nut on the other side.

The ETKA CD doesn't mention it, but I've seen alternator brackets with a
nut welded on to the inside leg (you Brits can stop falling about now...I
have been served)  so that you need only one wrench to tighten the pivot
bolt -- is that possibly what you're talking about?

Failing that, I would simply take the alternator off and support the lug
holding the stuck bolt, and tap it through with a largeish pin punch and
hammer.  Some penetrating oil would prolly help too.  When aluminum
corrodes, the white corrosion products can fill the space btw bolt and hole
with great force -- I've seen aluminum cleats actually split in half
because of this.

david
ps -- *Please* always mention the year of your beast -- it often does make
a difference.  For example, what I've said applies to 1.9 and 2.1
watercooled, but is probably completely wrong for aircooled...

David Beierl - Providence, RI
  http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
'84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
'85 GL "Poor Relation"