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DEAR FELLOW VANAGON ENTHUSIAST-

PLEASE KEEP YOUR PERSONAL AGENDA TO THE APPROPRIATE FORUM.
I'M SURE YOU ARE WELL MEANING IN SPREADING YOUR POINT
OF VIEW- BUT I'M INTERESTED IN VANAGONS.

THANKS,
STEVE

Matthew Bulley wrote:

> G. Matthew Bulley
> Bulley-Hewlett
> Mount Olive, NC USA
> 877.658.1278 Tollfree
> www.bulley-hewlett.com
>
> My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
> My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
> mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
> replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
> dense/mixed use zoning.
> The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl is
> restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our children's
> inheritance.
> Find out more at http://www.cnu.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Matthew Bulley [SMTP:gmbulley@bulley-hewlett.com]
> Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 4:00 PM
> To:     'pokeswagon@blazenet.net'
> Subject:        RE: ATF/MMO
>
> Donna--
>
> The guy who wrote the original post is a genius. ;-) wink.
>
> Joking aside, KW is good flush, as is Gold Eagle, and a couple of others.
> The ATF/MMO method is prolly a bit less caustic, since the viscosity of
> both ATF and MMO are greater than the kerosene-like flushes.
>
> The FLAP-jack has a good point though: if your motor is supremely filthy,
> the quantity of crud loosened by ANY of these methods (including the
> leave-in and drive around stuf) could cause more harm than good. If you
> pull off a valve cover, and there is thick black gooey crud all over
> everything, DON'T flush your motor. If it is a nice, translucent brown,
> flush.
>
> In a previous life, I used to rebuild VW motors, and folks who used the old
> formulation of Quaker State had serious black gook build up (I think it was
> because the Pennsylvania crude was higher in paraffin. Flushing these
> motors was a big no-no.
>
> Good luck
>
> G. Matthew Bulley
> Bulley-Hewlett
> Mount Olive, NC USA
> 877.658.1278 Tollfree
> www.bulley-hewlett.com
>
> My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
> My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
> mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
> replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
> dense/mixed use zoning.
> The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl is
> restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our children's
> inheritance.
> Find out more at http://www.cnu.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   (Donna Cassano) [SMTP:pokeswagon@blazenet.net]
> Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:31 PM
> To:     vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject:        ATF/MMO
>
> Hi List,
>
> Let me tell you how the ATF/MMO treatment went, er -ah, didn't went.
>
> This is what I was going to do per an old posting to the List:
> here's the post....
> <<
> Warm up motor by driving.
> Drain engine oil. Change filter to any brand.
> Refill with 1/2 & 1/2  engine oil and Automatic Transmission fluid, any
> brand.
> Start motor, BUT DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN!!!!
> Allow the motor to idle, and rev it gently every once in a while  (like
> to
> 2,000 rpm) for about 20 minutes.
> Drain Oil. Change filter to MANN or VW brand filter (NO Fram, Autocrap,
> AC
> Smelco, etc.)
> Refill with Castrol 20w50, and about 8-16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil.
> In 1,000 to 1,500 miles change your oil again and use a MANN or VW
> filter.
> Kiss your ticking lifter goodbye.
>
> The ATF is HIGHLY detergent, and will clean out the lifter. The Marvel
> Mystery oil will continue the process. The good filter will prevent the
> oil
> from draining out of the lifters overnight.
> After all of that is done,  run a compression check to verify that you
> don't have any bum valves. You prolly don't.
> >>
>
> I went to my trusty friend Gil's shop to see if he could give me bay
> space on this rainy day and when I told him what I was going to do he
> tells me that he usually justs runs the KW engine flush and then adds
> new oil. Said he does it with all his engines and it works great.
> Quicker, easier, and less wasted oil. So I head to the local (?)
> AutoZone to get a can of this stuff. The guy at AutoZone asks how many
> miles do I have on the vehicle. I proudly say 180K. He goes, WOAH, you
> don't want to use this stuff on a high mileage engine. Some of the junk
> that's in there (my engine) is probably holding things together. Clear
> out the junk and your gonna end up with leaks and troubles. Sells me
> this much less expensive bottle of CD2 oil treatment that you add to
> current oil, drive around a while up to 2000 miles), drain and refill
> with your new oil.
>
> So now I'm totally confused. Tell me what to do List. I want the voice
> of Vanagon experience.
>
> Is there any truth to the claim that the gunk is holding things together
> in there? And if so, how does the CD2 know which gunk to clean out and
> which gunk to leave alone?
> What are the benefits to the AFT/MMO over the KW Engine Flush? My lifter
> only taps occassionally and the van is just a little sluggish - should I
> bother?
>
> Any experience is greatly appreciated.
> TIA,
> Peace - donna
> '84 Westy (Pepe)

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