Uh, that would be Bulley's signature.  Probably his opinion, too, come to
think of it.

Karl Wolz

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Grayer" <sgrayer@abwatley.com>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: FW: ATF/MMO

> DEAR FELLOW VANAGON ENTHUSIAST-
>
> PLEASE KEEP YOUR PERSONAL AGENDA TO THE APPROPRIATE FORUM.
> I'M SURE YOU ARE WELL MEANING IN SPREADING YOUR POINT
> OF VIEW- BUT I'M INTERESTED IN VANAGONS.
>
> THANKS,
> STEVE
>
> Matthew Bulley wrote:
>
> > G. Matthew Bulley
> > Bulley-Hewlett
> > Mount Olive, NC USA
> > 877.658.1278 Tollfree
> > www.bulley-hewlett.com
> >
> > My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
> > My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
> > mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
> > replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
> > dense/mixed use zoning.
> > The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl
is
> > restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our
children's
> > inheritance.
> > Find out more at http://www.cnu.org
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:   Matthew Bulley [SMTP:gmbulley@bulley-hewlett.com]
> > Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 4:00 PM
> > To:     'pokeswagon@blazenet.net'
> > Subject:        RE: ATF/MMO
> >
> > Donna--
> >
> > The guy who wrote the original post is a genius. ;-) wink.
> >
> > Joking aside, KW is good flush, as is Gold Eagle, and a couple of
others.
> > The ATF/MMO method is prolly a bit less caustic, since the viscosity of
> > both ATF and MMO are greater than the kerosene-like flushes.
> >
> > The FLAP-jack has a good point though: if your motor is supremely
filthy,
> > the quantity of crud loosened by ANY of these methods (including the
> > leave-in and drive around stuf) could cause more harm than good. If you
> > pull off a valve cover, and there is thick black gooey crud all over
> > everything, DON'T flush your motor. If it is a nice, translucent brown,
> > flush.
> >
> > In a previous life, I used to rebuild VW motors, and folks who used the
old
> > formulation of Quaker State had serious black gook build up (I think it
was
> > because the Pennsylvania crude was higher in paraffin. Flushing these
> > motors was a big no-no.
> >
> > Good luck
> >
> > G. Matthew Bulley
> > Bulley-Hewlett
> > Mount Olive, NC USA
> > 877.658.1278 Tollfree
> > www.bulley-hewlett.com
> >
> > My Agenda: Stop Suburban Sprawl.
> > My Methods: Revitalize older, highly-dense, urban towns. Champion
> > mass/rapid transit and fast Internet service to these towns. Demand
> > replacement of archaic, "separationist" zoning laws with neo-traditional
> > dense/mixed use zoning.
> > The Result: All Americans obtain superior living opportunities; sprawl
is
> > restrained; and dense, beautiful, interlinked towns become our
children's
> > inheritance.
> > Find out more at http://www.cnu.org
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:   (Donna Cassano) [SMTP:pokeswagon@blazenet.net]
> > Sent:   Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:31 PM
> > To:     vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject:        ATF/MMO
> >
> > Hi List,
> >
> > Let me tell you how the ATF/MMO treatment went, er -ah, didn't went.
> >
> > This is what I was going to do per an old posting to the List:
> > here's the post....
> > <<
> > Warm up motor by driving.
> > Drain engine oil. Change filter to any brand.
> > Refill with 1/2 & 1/2  engine oil and Automatic Transmission fluid, any
> > brand.
> > Start motor, BUT DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN!!!!
> > Allow the motor to idle, and rev it gently every once in a while  (like
> > to
> > 2,000 rpm) for about 20 minutes.
> > Drain Oil. Change filter to MANN or VW brand filter (NO Fram, Autocrap,
> > AC
> > Smelco, etc.)
> > Refill with Castrol 20w50, and about 8-16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil.
> > In 1,000 to 1,500 miles change your oil again and use a MANN or VW
> > filter.
> > Kiss your ticking lifter goodbye.
> >
> > The ATF is HIGHLY detergent, and will clean out the lifter. The Marvel
> > Mystery oil will continue the process. The good filter will prevent the
> > oil
> > from draining out of the lifters overnight.
> > After all of that is done,  run a compression check to verify that you
> > don't have any bum valves. You prolly don't.
> > >>
> >
> > I went to my trusty friend Gil's shop to see if he could give me bay
> > space on this rainy day and when I told him what I was going to do he
> > tells me that he usually justs runs the KW engine flush and then adds
> > new oil. Said he does it with all his engines and it works great.
> > Quicker, easier, and less wasted oil. So I head to the local (?)
> > AutoZone to get a can of this stuff. The guy at AutoZone asks how many
> > miles do I have on the vehicle. I proudly say 180K. He goes, WOAH, you
> > don't want to use this stuff on a high mileage engine. Some of the junk
> > that's in there (my engine) is probably holding things together. Clear
> > out the junk and your gonna end up with leaks and troubles. Sells me
> > this much less expensive bottle of CD2 oil treatment that you add to
> > current oil, drive around a while up to 2000 miles), drain and refill
> > with your new oil.
> >
> > So now I'm totally confused. Tell me what to do List. I want the voice
> > of Vanagon experience.
> >
> > Is there any truth to the claim that the gunk is holding things together
> > in there? And if so, how does the CD2 know which gunk to clean out and
> > which gunk to leave alone?
> > What are the benefits to the AFT/MMO over the KW Engine Flush? My lifter
> > only taps occassionally and the van is just a little sluggish - should I
> > bother?
> >
> > Any experience is greatly appreciated.
> > TIA,
> > Peace - donna
> > '84 Westy (Pepe)
>