Dear fellow ATF engine-washers.  Please be warned that the large chunks
could clog some small oil orifices or perhaps an oil pick tube and ruin your
motor.  Please proceed with caution.

Why do I say that?  I've seen it happen.

----- Original Message -----
From: kenneth d lewis <kdlewis@juno.com>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: ATF/MMO

> Donna;
>         You forgot to energize your universal grease monkey translator.
> Had you done so I believe the response would have meant that an
> aggressive cleaner would dislodge large chunks where a gentle method
> would slowly wash it away.
>         Frankly I have never received a good reason as to which method
> was best. It seems to me the big chunks would just end up in  the filter
> anyway. Personnaly I have never done either, instaed I just change the
> oil at <3000 mile intervals (my 86 Transporter just turned over 199K on
> the original engine).
>
> Drive Safely & Good Luck
> Ken Lewis    <Kernersville,NC>
> 86 VW crewcab;60 356B Coupe
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> On Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:30:48 -0400 "(Donna Cassano)"
> <pokeswagon@blazenet.net> writes:
> >Hi List,
> >
> >Let me tell you how the ATF/MMO treatment went, er -ah, didn't went.
> >
> >This is what I was going to do per an old posting to the List:
> >here's the post....
> ><<
> >Warm up motor by driving.
> >Drain engine oil. Change filter to any brand.
> >Refill with 1/2 & 1/2  engine oil and Automatic Transmission fluid,
> >any
> >brand.
> >Start motor, BUT DO NOT DRIVE THE VAN!!!!
> >Allow the motor to idle, and rev it gently every once in a while
> >(like
> >to
> >2,000 rpm) for about 20 minutes.
> >Drain Oil. Change filter to MANN or VW brand filter (NO Fram,
> >Autocrap,
> >AC
> >Smelco, etc.)
> >Refill with Castrol 20w50, and about 8-16 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil.
> >In 1,000 to 1,500 miles change your oil again and use a MANN or VW
> >filter.
> >Kiss your ticking lifter goodbye.
> >
> >
> >The ATF is HIGHLY detergent, and will clean out the lifter. The Marvel
> >Mystery oil will continue the process. The good filter will prevent
> >the
> >oil
> >from draining out of the lifters overnight.
> >After all of that is done,  run a compression check to verify that you
> >don't have any bum valves. You prolly don't.
> >>>
> >
> >I went to my trusty friend Gil's shop to see if he could give me bay
> >space on this rainy day and when I told him what I was going to do he
> >tells me that he usually justs runs the KW engine flush and then adds
> >new oil. Said he does it with all his engines and it works great.
> >Quicker, easier, and less wasted oil. So I head to the local (?)
> >AutoZone to get a can of this stuff. The guy at AutoZone asks how many
> >miles do I have on the vehicle. I proudly say 180K. He goes, WOAH, you
> >don't want to use this stuff on a high mileage engine. Some of the
> >junk
> >that's in there (my engine) is probably holding things together. Clear
> >out the junk and your gonna end up with leaks and troubles. Sells me
> >this much less expensive bottle of CD2 oil treatment that you add to
> >current oil, drive around a while up to 2000 miles), drain and refill
> >with your new oil.
> >
> >So now I'm totally confused. Tell me what to do List. I want the voice
> >of Vanagon experience.
> >
> >Is there any truth to the claim that the gunk is holding things
> >together
> >in there? And if so, how does the CD2 know which gunk to clean out and
> >which gunk to leave alone?
> >What are the benefits to the AFT/MMO over the KW Engine Flush? My
> >lifter
> >only taps occassionally and the van is just a little sluggish - should
> >I
> >bother?
> >
> >Any experience is greatly appreciated.
> >TIA,
> >Peace - donna
> >'84 Westy (Pepe)
>
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