The main thing is, IMHO, to remedy the problem, not the symptom - which is
all the cap fix does.

In many cases, solving the actual problem is easier than cooking up a cap
fix anyways.

Basically, the idea is to clean the inside of the AFM with electronic spray
cleaner. Any flaps will have it - the brand doesn't matter, as all you want
is that highly volatile spray stuff  for cleaning circuit boards etc.

Search the archives using keywords: "cleaning afm electronic spray" and you
should get a pile of hits.

This is much easier to do than the circuitry fix.

Marshall Ruskin
84 Westy "Leader of the Pack"

> I tried the fix on my '85 using the 22uf capacitor.  It ran worse than
> before, but my power loss problem was related to something else.  I have
> since replaced the AFC with a new unit.  I am pretty sure I did not use
the
> tantulum capacitor.  Maybe this is key.
>
>
>
>
> Brian Cirulnick <techrat@vm.com> on 08/17/2000 01:02:13 PM
>
> Please respond to Brian Cirulnick <techrat@vm.com>
>
> To:   vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> cc:    (bcc: Jay L Snyder/AE/DuPont)
> Subject:  Capacitor fix questions
>
>
>
>
> I've been reading the archives about the "capacitor fix" for the AFM.
> I'm going to attempt this procedure over the weekend. However, I just got
> back from my local Rip-Off Shack, and, of course, they didn't have exactly
> what I was told was needed.
> Here are the available choices:
> 10 microfarad 16WVDC Tantalum Capacitor
> 22 microfarad 35WVDC Electrolytic Capacitor
> Can I substitute the Electolytic for the Tantalum?
> Or is 10microfarads okay instead of 22?
> I know that the Electrolytic has completely different properties than,
say,
> Ceramic caps, but I don't know the differences between Elec and Tant - I'm
> just not enough of an EE to know this stuff - and it wasn't covered in Art
> School...
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
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>