Matthew Libby & Denise DeWolfe wrote:
>
> Upon investigation today I found the following.  Compression check
> reveals 100-105 lbs. in all cylinders except #3 which reads 0!  Removing
> the valve cover shows all normal, except the valves on #3 seem to be
> moving more than they should.  I guess I dropped a piston...
>
> So:
> 1. can i get this engine fixed? $$$???

Yes, cheap fix would be to replace the piston/clyinder with a good used
one if you can find a mechanic who has one as long as everything else
checks out ok.

> 2. should I just replace it? $$$$??

Probably best if you have the $$$$-$1600 up.

> 3. what about a Subaru swap???  $$$$???

You are stuck with the air cooled 2.0, plumbing and mods for a radiator
to convert to a Subaru engine would be next to impossible, at least for
any sane person.

Take it to a good mechanic and have it checked out, he can best tell you
your options.
>
> THANX EVERYONE!
> Matt
>
> Stuart MacMillan wrote:
> >
> > Matthew Libby & Denise DeWolfe wrote:
> > >
> > > Can I drive the van 30+ miles to a mechanic without doing further
> > > damage?
> > >
> > Well, if you have been following the list you know what happened to me
> > when I pushed my engine too far!  Chances are you can drive VERY slowly
> > for the 30 miles without catastrophic failure, and this engine will most
> > likely need a complete rebuild anyway.  Disconnect the fuel injector
> > wiring connector on #3 so gas won't be shot into the failed cylinder. If
> > the power is as low as you say the other cylinders are probably in
> > pretty poor shape too, number three runs the hottest and is usually just
> > the first in line to go.
> >
> > You do run the risk of throwing a rod however, and not having an engine
> > to rebuild.
> >
> > A better idea is to join AAA Plus and have them tow it for free!  Choose
> > your mechanic carefully and be prepared to fix it right, half a***d
> > repairs won't last on these air cooled engines, they work much too hard
> > in the heavy Vanagon campers and everything has to be perfect for a
> > reasonable service life, as you can see.  If you need a complete rebuild
> > I would recommend an engine from a production rebuilder, such as are on
> > the list, rather than having a local mechanic do the rebuild.  Line
> > mechanics, especially those in independent shops, just don't have the
> > facilities or time to give this task proper attention.  Just have them
> > do the removal and installation, making sure all the cooling sheet
> > metal, etc. is installed and working properly.
> >
> > Keep in mind that if you like the camper and use it, it will be worth
> > putting a new, reliable engine in it!  If you are in doubt, sell it as
> > is and move on.
> >
> > --
> > Stuart MacMillan
> > Seattle
> >
> > '84 Vanagon Westfalia
> > '65 MGB (Driven since 1969)
> > '74 MGB GT (Restoring)
> >
> > Assisting on Restoration:
> > '72 MGB GT (Daughter's)
> > '64 MGB (Son's)
> >
> > Parts cars:
> > '68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT

--
Stuart MacMillan
Seattle

'84 Vanagon Westfalia
'65 MGB (Driven since 1969)
'74 MGB GT (Restoring)

Assisting on Restoration:
'72 MGB GT (Daughter's)
'64 MGB (Son's)

Parts cars:
'68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT