I did this job last Spring in my driveway. I have
right-angle 3/8" drills (Makita cordless and an old
Black and Decker) which were essential for this
miserable task. Managed to break a few drills-used a
carbide masonry bit to bust throught the tool steel
drill bits. Use lots of oil.
I replaced all bolts with studs-if the 8mm bolts
stick, they will break off as you try to twist them
loose. With a  stud, you just touch a recaltitrant nut
with a grider, heating it up with friction and giving
you a nice flat surface for those new Vice Grips.
You will find right-angle drills from rental stores,
woodworker suppliers (many are "discounters") resale
shops, etc. Best of luck. George

--- jhlauterbach <jhlauterbach@MSN.COM> wrote:
> Any advice on type of drill to use to get into that
> tight spot (left rear
> header) without removing the engine?  I have to do
> same job on my '84 and
> also do studs holding alternator mount.
>
> John Lauterbach
> Macon, GA
> '84 DL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Romas" <jromas@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:54 PM
> Subject: Re: stripped stud hole
>
>
> > What you need is a "Helicoil", he'll get a kit
> that contains a drill, tap,
> a
> > funny spring and a key to put the funny spring in
> the new hole he's
> drilled
> > and tapped. The spring is actually the new
> threads. No real harm done and
> it
> > could possibly be stronger. Plus, most kits come
> with several
> springs/coils
> > so you have one for next time!
> >
> > Joe
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bradley Flubacher" <flubach@HOME.COM>
> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:42 PM
> > Subject: stripped stud hole
> >
> >
> > > I just successfully stripped out a threaded hole
> in a head that holds
> the
> > > exhaust header on my vanagon.  My father-in-law
> is very knowledgable
> about
> > > this sort of thing so I'll be asking him what to
> do.
> > >
> > > I suspect I'll have to tap it out at the next
> larger size and get a new
> > > sized stud to match.
> > >
> > > This is the stud that is right under the water
> pump.  (at a glance,
> that's
> > > what it looked like from underneath)  I had to
> remove the studs so I
> could
> > > take off the header without removing the pump.
> I foolishly
> overtightened
> > > the stud.  Anyhow, I say all this because I want
> to retain the ability
> to
> > > remove the stud if I need to again... although I
> don't anticipate ever
> > > needing to replace this pipe again.  Worse case
> I could epoxy/JB
> > > weld/whatever it into the head.  I don't like
> that idea at all though.
> > >
> > > I notice that one of the PO's had a stud
> replaced.  For that reason it
> > looks
> > > as though I'm going to have to enlarge on of the
> holes on the front
> > header.
> > > It won't fit on the way it should.
> > >
> > > Needless to say, replacing my exhaust has turned
> into more that just a
> > quick
> > > evening job.  :)  Luckily I have a sense of
> humor!!
> > >
> > > Bradley Flubacher
> > > State College, PA
> > >

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