Good find Todd. I'll have to check the Bentley. My 85 has different brakes
than your 88 I think. I looked at the torque value for the bolts and I
didn't see to replace them. But I'm going to look again later.

Mark Ingalls

>From: Todd Last <Rubatoguy@mindspring.com>
>To: Mark Ingalls <ingalls_mark@HOTMAIL.COM>
>CC: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Brake Caliper Bolt Saga
>Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 00:06:21 -0800
>
>You might want to think twice about getting the caliper bolt at a junkyard.
>Bentley states that the two bolts that hold the caliper to the brake
>carrier
>are: "Self locking bolts - always replace." P. 46.5
>
>Todd
>'88 Westy
>
>Mark Ingalls wrote:
>
> > Hello All,
> >
> > While in the process of inspecting my recently acquired 85 GL I
>inspected
> > the front brake pads and they were down to maybe 1/1000 inch of pad
>left.
> > Well the PO got his moneys worth out of that set of pads.
> >
> > I moved the the rear drums and with a borrowed impact wrench I took off
>the
> > 46mm (1&13/16inch) nut. Low and behold the rear brakes were past the
>rivit
> > and the drum is scored badly. Also lifted the rubber boot for the brake
> > cylinder and fliud squirted out. So I ordered pads and linings and
>cylinders
> > from BD. Ordered Wheel bearing seals for the front and rear wheels from
> > Rocky Mountain Motor Works. Will go to a salvage yard in Lincoln
>Nebraska
> > for the rear drum.
> >
> > While taking the front calipers off the lower bolt on the right caliper
> > would not budge. I used the impact wrench on it. It wouldn't go, so I
> > borrowed a bigger impact. Still no go. I was doing this over a few days
> > period so I was squirting penetrating fluid on it every day.
> >
> > I work at a power plant so I talked it over with some of the machinists
>and
> > the plan I came up with was to use a mapp/oxygen torch I bought from
> > Menard's. I heated up the area on the steering knuckle that the bolt was
> > threaded into. I had to heat for maybe 1/2 hour because this cheap torch
>I
> > have puts out so little heat. Once it was hot enough that 'spit sizzles'
> > (300-400 degrees F) I took some special penetrating oil we have at work,
>and
> > with a Q-tip I wicked the penetrating oil into the space between the
>caliper
> > and the steering knuckle. I then let it all cool for 2 hours.
> >
> > I then went back and tried the impact wrench, still no go. I then tried
>my
> > cheapie breaker bar combined with a 1 1/2 foot cheater pipe and a 6
>point
> > 19mm socket. I put a lot of torque to it and I heard a POP! I thought I
>had
> > broken the pin in the cheap breaker bar but NO! The bolt had given up
>and
> > came loose!
> >
> > The bolt that came out is now a little twisted so that will be on my
>salvage
> > yard shopping list also.
> >
> > One note is that using a torch close to the brake caliper like I did may
> > result in the caliper seals failing, I will have to see what happens
>when I
> > bleed the system and afterwards.
> >
> > I am also replacing the beat up CV joint bolts so I will be so close to
> > having the rear bearing housing out that I am going to take it out and
> > refresh the grease in them also.
> >
> > I have a 75 bug with a 2213 engine so I've been blasting around with
>that in
> > 15 degree F weather while this job is getting along. Had to put
>synthetic
> > oil in the bug for this cold of weather if I wanted to turn any decent
> > RPM's.
> >
> > So long Volks,
> >
> > Mark Ingalls
> >
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