Hi John

My idle valve measures 4.5 Ohms. I spent some time replacing 2 resistors
(one looked burnt) and only then did that baby start vibrating. However, the
current draw jumped to 750 milliamps (I think the max should be 450) and
idling stayed over 1200rpm. Anyhow, I decided to clean and adjust my
throttle switch as best I could and then threw out the idle control unit so
that the valve would not be activated any longer. I then adjusted my idling
to 1000rpm which seems to be working very well. The engines always fires up
immediately in "cold" weather and idles round 700rpm. I give it a chance to
"wake up" while I go and prop up my double garage door (my syncro scrapes
the door otherwise). Without touching the accelerator I reverse slowly out
of the garage, jump out and unprop the garage door. This whole procedure
takes about 2 to 3 minutes and gives the engine a chance to wake up decently
(c'mon, everyone's fragile in the morning!). I only hit that accelerator
when I'm ready to hit 1st gear. It only takes 2 gear changes and by the time
I'm at the stop street on the corner of my road (30 sec) the engine idle is
near perfect. We are going into winter now so the ambient temp should drop
another 10 deg C, but I am confident that all will be OK.

My advice: Buy another idle control unit or chuck it out and drive without.

Regards
Nigel

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