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Subject:Engine Costs
From:Mike Finkbiner
Date:Fri, 11 May 2001 04:03:56 -0000

Volks -

Awhile back I was asked to give an update on the actual costs to have a
mechanic install one of Boston Bob's engines in my '87 Westphalia.  I have
put a little over 1000 miles on it in the last two weeks, and here is where
we stand to date.

Your cost will vary based on the choices you make, hourly labor costs, and
how your mechanic wants to count hours.

I purchased a 2.1 with a longer duration cam and new heads, polished and
ground to give better air flow  -
                                2600
New Clutch                       140    (Installed at Bob's)
Motor Mounts                      40
Estimated Freight both ways      200    (We'll see what this really runs)

While it's out, I decided to do the fuel lines, water lines, and some of the
plastic parts.

Coolant Hose Kit                 378
Fuel Line Kit                     53
Coolant Distributor               24
Thermostat Housing                37
Freight                            9

While my mechanic was doing the work he discovered some bad parts that would
have probably caused problems soon.  The existing throwout bearing was also
badly worn, but a new one came with the clutch.

Coolant Pipe                     122    (with seals and shipping)
CV Joint                          82

Labor came out a bit higher than I had hoped. Shop rate was $50 per hour.

Repl Engine             9.3 Hrs  465    (Flat Rate)
Repl Fuel/coolant lines 4 hrs    200

Swap Axles, RR CV joint 2.5 Hrs  125

Antifreeze, oil filter, grease
ATF (steering) shipping etc.      60

When the engine had been run for a bit, a seal on one of the pushrod tubes
started to leak.  It had been pinched while installing it.

Bob Donalds agreed to pay for putting the new tube in place, so I have paid
the mechanic $65, (tube, gaskets, shipping, labor) and hope to be
reimbursed.

While the engine was out, I had the local hydraulic shop make a specialty
hose out of braided stainless line.  We removed the left side oil pressure
sender, ran the line to the top of the engine and mounted the sender fitting
there.  When I am ready I will install a VDO oil pressure gauge and not have
to tear things apart. Regular hydraulic line would have been about half this
price, as would pipe, but this is a slick setup that should outlast the
engine.

Specialty hose                    40

Fill in your local labor rate, add it up, and throw in another $50 for phone
calls and things I forgot.

We're not done yet.  At 1000 miles, the three year old water pump has
started to drip a tiny bit out of the weep hole (It would have been cheaper
to do it when the engine was out, but I was trying to save $50)

The gas mileage sucks, 15-16 mpg, there is a very small oil drip from the
front center of the engine, and #3 cylinder has only 110 psi compression.

We're going to hope it's a valve lifter that needs adjustment, or a piece of
carbon on the valve.  I'm going to have a separate post asking for advice on
the mileage issue.

If I had to do it again?  I would have bought more heater hose so he could
have done the long lines to the front as well as all of the other coolant
lines, and I would not have tried to save money using the existing water
pump.

It would have been nice to be able to save money by doing the water and fuel
lines myself, but it is so much easier when the engine is out.

Could I have tackled this in my driveway?  Maybe, but I would have needed a
solid week, and lots of help.  I'm more of a woodworker than a mechanic.
This way I get a warranty, and the knowledge that it was done well.  I've
been dealing with my mechanic for more than 20 years.  He has made a couple
of mistakes, but never let me down in the long run.

With care, I should be good for 15-20 years on this engine - if I can
control the seam rust!

Thanks for all of the suggestions for things to do while it was out!

- Mike Finkbiner
'87 Westy (with a new engine!)
Moscow, Idaho
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