When mounting roof rack brackets to fiberglass tops/shells, it's always a
good idea to use backing plates made of either  1/8-3/16" thick abs
plastic(depends on how thin the glass is you're mounting the hardware to.
Worth the effort to pull out any headliner etc. to make the backing plates
spread the stress load more evenly over the top's surface area.  Too stiff
or thick a backing plate will cause a stress riser and the top will crack
right where the backing plate quits.  I've not done a Westy top
specifically, but have seen the results of poorly engineered pickup truck
applications with their glass camper shell tops.  The yakima top and side
loader brackets are well worth their price as then you can use less
expensive roof rack combinations, but even if you're doing less
load-capacity stuff, backing up your fastners is always a good idea, even if
it's just some large stainless steel fender washers and nylox nuts for
security.

DM&FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Kay" <CTONLINE@WEBTV.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2001 6:58 AM
Subject: RE; Drilling Fiberglass

> Steve,
> Put the bit to it and let her fly !!
> The bit will go through the glass so fast, that there won't be enough
> heat to do any damage to the surrounding areas.
>
> This is a no brainer !!
>
> Just be sure to drill the holes a little smaller than needed, as the
> glass will tend to spread a little when sticking those screws or
> whatever fastener intended, and won't hold very good.
>
> If at all possible through-bolt, and nut the items to be attached, and
> use washers for sure----fiberglass is brittle, and has very little
> holding power.
>
> Later,
>
>   ______________
>  |[  ] [  ] [ ]\
>  |    |    |    |
> ||-(())----(())-|
>
>
> Terry
> 74 Campmobile (Clementine)
> 85 GL
> 86 BMW 325 ES