Except for Joel getting the #3 and #4 plug location backwards, that was a
John Muir-quality breakdown of plug r&r.  I've been a charter member of the
"Proofreading is for Pussies" club, also!!

DM&FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Walker" <jwalker17@EARTHLINK.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: REQ: "Idiot's Guide to Changing Spark Plugs"

> > I'm a bumbling, certified NON-mechanic.
>
> well .. that's better than being a bumbling, certified mechinic!! :)
>
> > He doesn't have the time to change the plugs for me, and (don't
> laugh) I've
> > never done it.  I can borrow a spark plug wrench from a friend; can
> anyone
> > with some spare time give me a walk-through of how exactly to change
> the
> > plugs, i.e., tools needed, "Whatever you do, DON'T disconnect the
> Widget"
> > etc.?
>
> ok, what you'll need to have before you begin.
> - 3/8-inch ratchet wrench. short one. about 6-8 inches long. don't get
> one any longer, cause it'll allow you to put too much torque on the
> plug and you can snap it in two.
> - 3/8-inch extension (to fit between the wrench and the socket). get
> at least a 6-inch one. 8-inch is better if you can find it. longer is
> harder to work with and shorter sucks.
> - 3/8-inch socket. it's for a 14mm spark plug, and i think it's
> 13/16ths in size. it's the larger of the various spark plug sockets.
> you want the one that has the foam insert inside (this holds the plug
> in place while you are contorting your body to get the plug going into
> the holes). :)
> - a tube or can of Never-Seize or Anti-Seize. this is a copper-based
> goop that you sparingly spread (with can-top-provided brush or
> fingers) onto the threads of the spark plug ... makes them easier to
> get out next time.
> - if you can find it, a wire-gauge type spark plug gapper. this is a
> little tool that you use to check and make sure the spark plug
> electrodes are PDC (pretty damned close) to the right spec distance
> (printed somewhere on the spark plug box).
> - a flat blade screwdriver. for removing the air flow meter rubber
> boot clamp.
>
> ok, status of bus ...
> - engine OFF.
> - rear hatch is opened (if you've got weak struts, prop it up with
> something ...otherwise, you'll be bonking your head for sure!).
> - rear cushion (if you have one) is removed.
> - rear carpet-thingie is removed.
> - engine hatch is removed (you can see the engine).
> - lotsa daylight, or brightly lit garage/carport, or nice flourescent
> tube-light trouble light.
> :)
>
> three of the spark plugs are fairly easy. number 1 is the bitch ...
> it's under the air cleaner box. :( let's start on the other side
> first.
> the plugs are numbered, starting at left front and going to left rear,
> 4 and 3. on the right side, front is 1 and rear is 2. front means
> front of the bus (you are standing behind the bus, looking toward the
> driver's seat).
>
> do these, one plug at a time. do not move to the next spark plug until
> you have completed the previous one.
>
> starting with the front left, number 4. find the spark plug wire and
> connector. wiggle and twist and pull the connector off the spark plug.
> pay attention to where the spark plug is ... once the connector is
> off, it's hard to see down there.
> put the extension into the socket, then the extension onto the ratchet
> wrench. set the selector to 'loosen' (this means that the ratchet
> should make clickitty noises if you move the handle in a
> counter-clockwise rotation (about the extension) .. like you are gonna
> open a water spigot).
> put the socket down in that little hole where the plug is and put the
> socket onto the plug. push it down onto the plug until you hear it
> kinda click. then start ratcheting to loosen the plug. it takes a
> while to get the plug all the way out (that's where the foam insert
> comes in handy ... it keeps the plug in the socket).
> once you get the plug out, set it aside. it helps to have a piece of
> cardboard or something with holes in it so you can keep the old plugs
> separate. and mark the holes with the number of the plug ... that way,
> you can compare the plugs later. if you let them get mixed up, you
> can't tell which one came out of number 4 and which one was number 2.
> now take the new plug and with the gapper tool, make sure that the
> electrode(s) are about the right distance from the center post. it's
> usually pretty close, so you could skip this if you want to.
> remove the little round thingie that may or may not be threaded onto
> the top of the plug. it's usually copper colored and american car plug
> connectors need it, but vw's don't. you should have only the threaded
> little post sticking out at the top of the plug (the top is the
> non-electrode end. the part that is gonna be sticking out of the
> engine). (check the old plug ... the new one needs to look like it on
> this end).
> put some of the Never-Seize on the thread. easy does it ... don't
> drown the threads. just make sure some of it goes all the way around,
> not just on one side.
> put the new plug into the socket, push it down into the foam insert.
> now comes the fun part ... take the ratchet off the extension and try
> angling the extension and socket (with plug in it) so you can get the
> plug started in the threads in the hole in the engine. this is also
> the important part ... you do NOT want to get those threads
> cross-threaded!!  it'll feel right if it's lined up and the threads
> are matching up .. if it feels the least bit wrong, back it out. check
> to see if you're in the right place and try again.
> once you get the threads started, screw it down with your hand/fingers
> as far as you can ... this ensures that you don't cross-thread
> anything with the power of the ratchet. when you have screwed it in a
> pretty good ways with your hand, then put the ratchet on the extension
> and tighten it the rest of the way.
> how tight is enough? when it gets tight, grip the ratchet as close to
> the extension as you can (NOT way out on the end of the handle) and
> tighten it as tight as you can ...unless you're an arm-wrestling
> champeen, you shouldn't be able to tighten it too tight, gripped that
> way. i think 18 ft-lbs is the torque spec, if you want to use a
> torque-wrench. it's about the same amount that you tighten the oil
> drain plug.
> now pull the socket/extension/ratchet out and find the connector and
> plug wire that you took off a while ago. if necessary, start at the
> distributor and follow the wires. ;) put the connector back onto the
> new plug. push it on til it clicks.
>
> done? ok, now move to the left rear. number 3. same thing as before,
> but here, if you have air conditioning, the compressor and bracket may
> get in the way. work around them. sorry, but that's the only way. :)
>
> when that one is also done, move to the right side.
> you can get to the number 2 (right rear) plug without removing the air
> cleaner, but it's easier to just do both after you've removed it.
> to remove air cleaner box -
> - with the screwdriver, loosen the clamp on the right end of the black
> rubber elbow that connects the air flow meter to the intake manifold
> thingie (where the accelerator cable connects to the engine). wiggle
> the boot off the air flow meter.
> - there's a brass-colored clamp thingie on top of the air cleaner box.
> it attaches the box to the right side of the engine compartment.
> unsnap it ... it's kinda tight/tough so it'll take some force to move
> it. but don't get gorilla with it. :)
> - once unsnapped, wiggle the air cleaner box upwards until its little
> feet come out of the holes in the shelf (you'll see it when it comes
> out ... those feet have to go back in those holes) and flop the whole
> mess over onto the cargo deck (the area around the engine hatch
> opening) ... flop carefully. you don't want to damage the air flow
> meter. leave all the wires attached to everything .. they are long
> enough to do this.
>
> ok, now you have room to get to the two plugs on the right side. same
> thing as before. one at a time.
>
> once done, we have to put the air cleaner back in place.
> unflop it and seat the little legs on the bottom of the black plastic
> air cleaner box into those two rubber-grommeted holes in that little
> shelf that sticks out from the right wall of the engine compartment.
> MAKE SURE NO INJECTION WIRES  of any kind are caught between that
> shelf and the air cleaner box!!! otherwise, you can wind up melting
> the whole wiring harness when a pinched wire wears through and shorts
> out. :(
> now fit the rubber elbow back onto the air flow meter and tighten the
> screw on the clamp to hold it. no, it isn't a good clamp. no, it
> doesn't take too much tightening, but don't leave it too loose either.
> hard to tell you how much is enough. you just have to kinda feel it
> and try wiggling the clamp to see if it's tight enough.
>
> that's it. :)
>
> > Also, any recommendations of spark plug brands or types favored by
> Westy
> > owners would be appreciated.  Do double- and triple-fire spark plugs
> make
> > any difference?
>
> i'm partial to bosch w7tdc ... they have three prongs and seemed to
> smooth my idle and improve my gas mileage over the long term. no,
> really. in 70,000 miles of using these plugs (two sets ... they last a
> long time), my overall from-day-one mpg went up 1.1 mpg. and as far as
> i can figure, i didn't change anything else. :)
>
> they aren't cheap, though. :(
>
> good luck!
> joel