Can the plastic ones be fitted to the earlier vans.?

> From: Peter Krogh <VW85Westy@AOL.COM>
> Reply-To: VW85Westy@AOL.COM
> Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2001 07:55:02 EDT
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Cooling system R&R wrap up (long)
>
> Lessons learned from the cooling system R&R
>
> #1 If you are replacing your engine (especially)or having any major engine
> work done, check your cooling system, particularly the long pipes.  If you
> are on the original radiator, you probably should be thinking about a new one.
>
> #2  If you have not done it already, get a lower temp fan switch.  Even if
> you don't want to install it yourself, it's something you will need to
> provide to a mechanic, because they are hard to find locally.  So buy it now.
>
> #3  Check the long pipes. Check the long pipes. Check the long pipes. ( I
> think this only applies to vans "85 and older, as the newer ones have plastic
> long pipes.)
>
> Cooling system R&R Costs
>
> New Radiator from Bus depot, $190 or so
> New Expansion Tank $20
> Low temp fan switch $9
> molded hoses (I needed three, as the engine shop replaced about 6) $75
> Heater Hose (5/8 reinforced) $40 for 50' roll.  (Did not need that much but
> was cheaper than by-the-foot)
> T's (2 for rear heater, top of T is 5/8, leg of T is 1/2) $10 Napa
> Hose clamps, $15
> Long pipes replacement, Trident Marine Exhaust hose, wire reinforced, one 12'
> length, one 13' length, $160 (available at marine supply house)
> Cable ties (I had these)
>
> TIME
>
> Most of the time was spent gathering parts and deciding what to do.
> Following are estimates of each part of the process:
> Draining cooling system 1 hr
> Remove Spare tire carrier and drop radiator 1.5 hr
> Remove and label heater hose 1 hr.
> cut up and remove long pipes 1.5 hr
>
> Replace radiator 1hr
> Install long pipes and heater hose 2 hr
> Fill and bleed 1hr
>
> Project notes:
> LONG PIPES
> I had asked the shop that did engine swap to replace all suspect cooling
> system parts, but inexplicably, they did nothing to these.  The pipes looked
> fine for the most visible parts under the van, but reaching around the top of
> them in the engine compartment, I felt significant rust.  I suggest checking
> yours now.  I decided to replace with Marine hose because of cost ($160
> compared to $300) and ease of installation (can be installed with Gas Tank in
> place).  The Trident hose and the Shields hose is rated for 350 degrees (as I
> remember) , for hundreds of PSI, and for antifreeze.  I bought wire
> reinforced because that's what they had, but would have been comfortable with
> the non-wire stock.  Wire helps it keep shape on bends.
>
> I could have just replaced the last 18 inches of the pipes, but then I would
> have been worried each time I drove if there was unseen rust somewhere,
> waiting to leak.  As it turned out, there were a few minor rust spots over
> the gas tank that would probably not have given me any trouble for a year,
> two or three.  I'm glad I replaced the whole thing.
>
> I used a sawzall to cut up and remove the old long pipes.  After detaching
> them, I cut off the top of the rear (last 18 inches or so to take back to the
> shop and show them what they missed) .I then pulled them as far forward as I
> could, cut the pipe at the steering rack, and pulled them out the rear.
> Watch out for further antifreeze coming out the pipes as you cut.  Installing
> the flexible was easy, I fed it from the rear of the van over the gas tank,
> and was able to reach over the rack in front and pull it forward.  I had
> labeled the pipes and tried to transfer that information to the flexible, so
> that I would know what attached where, but in retrospect, I should have just
> consulted Bently (thanks for those who sent diagrams).  Be sure to get this
> right.
>
> You will see that there is a striaght hose that goes from the long pipe to
> the radiator connection that points to the rear of the van.  I just ran the
> flexible right to the radiator and did not replace this as a separate hose.
>
> On the rear connection, it gets a little trickier.  The long pipes go through
> the tin at the engine compartment, and the flexible is too big to go through
> these holes.  Fortunately, there was enough good steel pipe for me to make
> connectors (about 8 inches long, cut out of one of the elbows in the old long
> pipe) and have these run from the engine compartment cooling hoses, through
> the tin, and into the flexible.  If your long pipes are totally rusted, I
> guess you go to the parts store and improvise.  BTW, I also cut out several
> other good sections of pipe and have put them in the tool and part bin in the
> van so that they are available for repairs.  I also put the extra hose
> length had in there.
>
> Make sure you anchor the hose above the CV joints so that it does not rub.
>
> HEATER HOSE
> This part was very straightforward, easy to run.  The hose up front from the
> valve to the core looked good, so I did not mess with it.
>
> RADIATOR
> Replacing the radiator was pretty straightforward also. I took out the spare
> tire holder (two clips on the  metal rods that run from the front frame back
> to the plate).  I also had to remove the accelerator cable protector so that
> I could drop the radiator with the fan and the fan switch still attached.  It
> takes a little work to get it by the air conditioner, but was not too tough.
> It would be easier if you had a 29mm socket and could remove the fan switch
> first, but no need to buy one.
>
> For replacement, I was able to do it alone, by carefully using the jack to
> hold it in place while I reattached the underneath support brackets.  I first
> got it in place enough that I could put the brackets back on, then jacked it
> up slowly until it was snug on top, then adjusted the brackets.
>
> ANTIFREEZE
> I wanted to reuse the antifreeze, so I bought the cheapest water I could,
> dumped the jugs out and used them to hold the antifreeze.  I did need to use
> a big roasting pot as a further catch basin because it is messy.  I guess I
> saved about 2.5 of the 3.5 gallons of coolant that came out.  Started with
> heater hoses, then did long pipes.  Used C clamps and pieces of wood to
> control the flow out where I could.
>
> RESULTS
> The van runs much cooler now.  I can't seem to get the needle above halfway,
> even in bad traffic.  I think the new radiator is much more efficient, and
> the fan switch comes on much sooner.  As I said above, I suggest the fan
> switch replacement for everyone.
>
> Well, that's about it.  If you have any fiurther questions, drop me a line.
> Peter & and very cool Zippy.
>