Marvel Mystery Oil is the fastest and easiest way to go.  Take one minute.
Instant repair.
Zoltan
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rodgers" <jhrodgers@CHARTER.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: 2.1 lifter replacement

> Larry Alofs wrote:
>
> > John Rodgers wrote:
> >
> > > John Lunetta 1990 Vanagon GL wrote:
> > >
> > >> Does anyone know if you can replace the hydrolic lifters on a 1990
> > >> 2.1 waterboxer without removing the cylinder heads? I will be using
> > >> collapsable push rod tubes as replacments.
> > >
> > >
> > > Why are you replacing lifters? It may not be necessary!!
> > >
> > > John Rodgers
> > > 88 GL Driver who has a clacking lifter today ... but now it's fine.
> > >
> >
> > Explain!
>
> Larry, the clacking lifter syndrome is characteristic of the wasserleaker
> engine in our beloved later model vans. The cause and cure has been cussed
> and discussed a thousand times over. All sorts of info about it can be
> found in the archives.
>
> Almost 99.9 % of the time it is caused by the lifter losing its prime, or
> the oil in the lifter simply leaking down when not running so that the
> next time the engine is started cold (and some times not so cold) the
> lifter is "out of adjustment" --- i.e., the valve train clearances are to
> large and you get this terrible clacking sound. After it is run  a while,
> the lifter pumps back up, the clearances close or tighten up, and the
> noise disappears.
>
> It seems that the loss of pressure in the lifter is a function of the
> pressure  remaining in the oil galleries in the engine after shutdown.
> This particular situation is sometimes remedied by going to he proper oil.
> It is a debate as to which works best but I think most of us use 20W-50
> oil. That is recommended by the book. In addition, having an oil filter
> with the proper internal relief valve spring pressure is critical on these
> engines. I use a Mahle filter exclusively, available from some of the list
> vendors.
>
> Given the engine design, the filter components help hold the pressure in
> the oil galleries when the engine is shut down and prevent the lifters
> from losing their prime. When  the engine is stopped so a cam lobe is
> putting pressure on a push rod, if the oil galleries don't hold pressure,
> the push rod pressure on the lifter will cause it to collapse, and the
> next time the engine is started the lifter will clatter and clack until it
> pumps back up again.
>
> Internal cleaning of the engine is also implicated in this clacking
> problem, and many members of this list add a pint to a quart of Marvels
> Mystery Oil to the oil at oil change and filter change time. Seems to help
> for some. Some have opted to go to some of the newer  synthetic oils to
> get the best lube, engine protection, and eliminate the clacking lifter
> syndrome.
>
> Being religious about oil change and filter changes is crucial as well.
>
> Most of these efforts will eliminate the clacking lifter problem. If not,
> then the lifter may very well have to be changed.
>
> Though I have not had to do it myself, I understand changing a lifter  is
> not to complicated, and that using a collapsible/expandable push rod tube
> aids the process enormously.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver