Hi Joe,

My heart goes out to you ...... I just finished replacing one head and resealing the other on my '84.

With much work I was finally able to separate cylinders 1,3 & 4 from the heads but #2 wouldn't budge.  I broke off the top "Ear"
trying.

Figuring that #2's wrist pin was the easiest to access, I gave up and removed that head with cylinder attached.  I ended up
bludgeoning the cylinder free with a 3 to 4 inch diameter wood log as the rubber and plastic mallets just weren't getting it.  At
least I didn't damage the cylinder in the process.

In reassembly, I removed the #2 piston, inserted it in the cylinder using an inexpensive ring compressor (from the local FLAPS), and
reinstalling with the aid of a homemade tool (bent clothes hanger) to hold the rod in position for inserting the wrist pin.

If you end up going this route and need more details, I'll be happy to provide.

Oh ... the end result.  FINALLY ... it runs great!  No more overheating.

Mike
'84 GL

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Romas" <jromas@COLUMBUS.RR.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 7:45 PM
Subject: HELP!! One stuck stubburn cylinder sleeve.

> Ok, I've started the job I've been putting off for a year and I know why!!
> Now for my problem, what is the best way to remove stuck cylinder sleevs
> from a head? I think the ones on my 84 gl have been there all their lives
> and I'm down to one. I've chipped off most of the lugs and still no go, I
> heated, used penatrating oil and left set overnight and heated. How about
> putting the head back on enough to start the studs and use compressed air in
> the cylinder?? For what ever reason the left side seems to have more rust on
> the cylinder sleeves.
>
> Any suggestions apperciated.
> Joe