When I filled my system after my motor swap back a few
weeks ago, this is what I did on my 82 diesel.

1. filled as much as I could in main coolant tank.
2. I had a new radiator, so before putting the front
grill back on, I took out one of the temp sensors and
filled the radiator from here.  Remember, I have the
rare one year only $400 $%&&^%^% radiator, the other
model may have the temp sensors in a different spot.
3. After stating motor it sucked up another gallon.
4. A few days later I got it hot, parked on a small
incline with the front higher, had a friend hold the
trottle and I opened the bleeder valve on top of the
radiator.  I let the coolant flow until I got no more
bubbles.

I am pretty sure this worked because I not longer have
girgeling noises when I turn heat on like I did before
the motor swap.

My temp guage rides to the right side of the light.

--- Milo <ovalwindow@yahoo.com> wrote:
> hello,
>
> i filled up the coolant system after draining it to
> put my new raceware
> studs in.
> the needle is running on the right side of the light
> in the gauge now, which
> is
> cooler than it was before the raceware swap.  (this
> is good!)
>
> my question is this.  does filling the diesel
> coolant system require raising
> the
> front end (similar to the Vanagon wasserboxer
> procedure)?  it seems that it
> should
> to me.  couldn't find anything in the archives -
> anyone have an idea?  i'm
> thinking
> this might get the needle down a little further, as
> it seems most folks
> diesel
> vanagons temp. needle rides to the left side of the
> bulb, instead of the
> right.
>
> if it does require raising, anyone know how much?
>
> THANKS!  John
>

=====
Bryan Belman, Pt. Pleasant, NJ
90 Audi 200 FWD  (Money Pit)
82 Westy Diesel (1.9l NA...)in process
70 Type 1 Std. beetle (this resto is done!)

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