so keeping this in mind, i just put in a new oxygen
sensor, and it came with the crimp connector...so i
cut the old wire and connected it to the new sensor
and crimped it...should i cut off this crimp and
solder the sensor to the old wire???
--- Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Better to Solder! Crimping on butt connectors is
> faster but creates a
> resistance point which can change the value of the
> signal input to the ECU
> once corrosion sets in.
> Soldering or hard wiring is the best way to connect
> fuel injection harness
> wiring.Helps to seal out moisture and dirt-better
> elecrtical continuity.This
> was taught to me by a local VW tech (who just
> finished putting a 1.8 Turbo
> from a 2001 Passat into a 82 Rabbit pick-up, even
> using the speedo cluster
> from the same)
> Hard wiring also brings the design back to factory
> specs-if your wiring is
> good you can better troubleshoot the system.
> I know a guy who crimp-connected the whole wiring
> harness for a 1-4
> conversion he was doing. After the Vanagon was sold,
> I saw it at a VW shop
> where the technicians had completely re-wired it the
> hardwired way.
> Crimp-ons are good for emergency or 12 volt low-amp
> wiring. Fuel injection
> ECU voltage and sensor voltage is 5 volts or less,
> resistance therefore has
> a greater effect and crimping should be avoided.
>
>
> Robert K
> 1982 Westfalia w/2.0 '95 Golf engine.
>
> >From: s w <smorewhisky@yahoo.com>
> >To: Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM>,
> vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: Re: Temp II sensor followup
> >Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 06:20:35 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >i am needing to splice the wire leading to the temp
> II
> >sensor as well, was wondering if you could use a
> crimp
> >instead of soldering?although soldering does not
> look
> >to be a great challenge, the crimps would make the
> job
> >faster for sure. is it better to solder???
> >--- Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > > Hi Mike,
> > > You asked:
> > > <<Is there a better way to repair the bare spot
> than
> > > tape?>>
> > >
> > > 1.Cut
> > > 2.Strip 1/4" off each end. Slp 2" heat shrink
> tubing
> > > far down one of the
> > > ends.
> > > 3. Twist both ends together.
> > > 4. Solder the splice with rosin core solder
> > > 5. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over the splice
> and
> > > heat tubing evenly with
> > > a match or lighter.
> > > 6. The standard disclaimer applies to warn you
> not
> > > to ignite anything in the
> > > presence of spilled fuel or to set down your
> > > soldering iron down on the fuel
> > > rail.
> > >
> > > Robert K
> > > 1982 Westfalia
> > > Seattle
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
> > > >Reply-To: mike miller <mwmiller@CWNET.COM>
> > > >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > > >Subject: Temp II sensor followup
> > > >Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 21:59:33 -0800
> > > >
> > > >Hello list.
> > > >
> > > >Have an update and a question or two.
> > > >
> > > >My van did back things [detailed under Temp II
> > > sensor].  I ordered the
> > > >sensor from Ken and waited the 7 work days for
> it
> > > to show.  It did, right
> > > >on
> > > >schedule, and I went to put it in the van.
> > > >
> > > >Checked Bentley and looked at the thermostat
> > > housing area.  Hmmm. What's
> > > >this, a connection loose?  That's right, when
> > > checking it out on the road,
> > > >at night, we had knocked the temp II connector
> off.
> > >  Crud.
> > > >
> > > >But that didn't explain why it ran badly in the
> > > first place so I looked
> > > >underneath and there was a brown wire coming
> out of
> > > a bundle sitting on the
> > > >exhaust header, bare spot on wire.  oh, darn.
> > > >
> > > >Taped it up, runs great.
> > > >
> > > >Questions:
> > > >
> > > >Is there a better way to repair the bare spot
> than
> > > tape?
> > > >
> > > >What's the best way to hold the bundle back
> from
> > > the header [nothing much
> > > >to
> > > >tie to except radiator hose]
> > > >
> > > >Is it better to scream loudly, or is a low
> agonize
> > > moan better?
> > > >
> > > >TIA
> > > >
> > > >Mike
> > > >
> > > >Thanks all for your help on this one, and all
> the
> > > rest over the past few
> > > >years.
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
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