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From: Phaedra Savage <psavage@mexconnect.com>

Noche Buena
December 24, 2001

Saludos de Mexico!
I tossed the final duffle bag into my �85 Westy on December 6th & pointed
due 
south  (my favorite heading) down the CA coast, steering for AZ & the
Mexican  frontera.   Fun began right off--with invitations to �pop my top�
at homes of 
several sporting list members & their families en route.

First night out, Bill & Ali Caspar of Santa Cruz, CA (& endearing young son
Alexander, a Christopher Robin look alike) welcomed me with a delicious
dinner 
of savory lentils & sausages, fresh hot bread, mustard greens & beer.  Bill
showed 
me one of the many saxophones in his collection &, just like �alto egos,� we
talked 
jazz & saxophones.  I really hit it off with Ali, too, who grew up in Italy
& had 
amusing anecdotes re the process of learning to drive there.  As they�re not
far from 
my redwood hideout, I hope to see more of them!

Never one to miss a bash, Al Knoll (aka Pensioner) arrived in Santa Cruz in
his  
syncro to join the festivities�bearing more brew pub beer�plus a tin of
Spanish 
blood sausages to fatten my larder, & a dainty pair of Bushnell binocs to
loan for
my neophyte bird watching pleasure.  Next morning, we swilled coffee while
inspecting one another�s vehicles, kicking tires till Bill & Ali finally had
to leave 
for work.

Leo & Sondra Korkin put me up two days later in LA--& invited me along to a
big 
Polish family birthday party.  Leo *assured me we�d leave the party early,
owing to
my long drive next day.  So, after a look at the Korkin�s collection of
beautiful art 
glass & Leon�s astonishing custom cabinetry�his handiwork�we  headed to the
home of relatives in the San Fernando Valley.  Here, a gorgeous holiday
table for eighteen (or more!) sparkled before a roaring fireplace�& never
can I recall a more delicious repast or such a rousing, great good time.

Leon�s an engineer from the old Solviet Union & Sondra & her wonderful big
family 
are from Poland.  Sondra�s 80-some year old mother, just arrived from
Poland, was clearly the life of the party�drinking the men under the table &
singing a (sometimes bawdy) toast to each family member--including children
& grandchildren.  Young &
old, everyone sang & danced with abandon.  (Sondra & Leon translated for
me.)   This family *really knows how to party!  Leon kept his promise that
we�d leave the party early--& indeed we were accused of breaking up the
party when we left--at 3 AM!!!

Despite our �early� evening, however, I did *not manage an early escape.
After a yummy breakfast of lox & warm, fresh bagles, Leon led us on a short
bird watching expedition in a nearby park where, (despite a mild hangover) I
learned something of ruddy ducks & shovelers.   Leon loaned me his own
volume of �Birds of Mexico� to accompany Pensioner�s loaner binocs.

Barry & Leslie Logan (& son Nicholas), high in the desert mountains east of
San Diego, were my third hosts.  Barry�s a skilled Westy mechanic &
occasional 
poster to the list.
Their roomy spread, nestled in a pretty valley of rocky outcroppings, trees,
scrub, 
& little ranches, was a welcome respite after So Cal�s frenetic traffic.
Barry�s 
recently acquired an �85 weekender Westy nearly identical to mine.  When I
arrived 
at sundown, son Nicholas was already grilling chicken over the coals outside
while 
Barry & Leslie poured red wine & whipped up guacamole, chile verde, salad,
beans 
& rice.  It was great to meet some of their friends, who shared this
veritable feast with
us.  Barry & family have traveled much of the world, so we�d much  to
share--including 
a love of poetry & indigenous cultures.  In a word, we were �muy simpatico�!

Today, Christmas eve, (Noche Buena) I write from a quiet little fishing
village a bit 
north of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico�s Pacific coast.  My Westy�s tucked among
palm trees & flowering hedges, along with a half dozen other small RV�s,
right on the ocean.  I�ve a small cement patio, shade, water & electricity.
We share a breezy palapa on the beach, complete with tables & chairs.  My
own hammock swings there--& mid day,
after a long, early-morning beach walk with my pooch, I swing contentedly in
my hammock with a good book, or join a game of  poker or gin rummy.
(I travel with poker chips�ahem)  Later, I thrash in the exuberant surf,
shower, then join others for the glorious sunset & a ritual dark rum with
lime over ice.  Later, we walk five minutes into the village for a supper of
fresh shrimp, huachnango (red snapper), or chiles rellenos.   Que rico!

Terry, one of my camp mates, is a retired VW mechanic who�s a recent
graduate
of the SF Culinary Academy.  Terry & wife Jacqueline are throwing a
sumptuous
gourmet Christmas dinner for us all tomorrow under the palapa on the beach.
Complete with cloth napkins & candles!   Vaya!

I�m happy to report that--except for my speedometer--which now performs
erratically
since LA, I�ve *no need thus far to consult our resident VW mechanic.  As
luck might have it, any problems I might encounter would no doubt occur
*after I�ve left Terry�s
expertise miles behind!   Asi es la vida--Such is life.

I�ll remain here until after New Year�s, afterward heading farther south to
a favorite snorkeling area.  After that--quien sabe?  Who knows?
One thing is sure:  I�ll be heading upland, to the central highlands�but
where I will go, or what adventure choose, is a mystery for now.   It�s hard
to go wrong.  My neighbor�s bumper sticker says �No Bad Days.�  So here�s to
that!

I�ll dispatch another report when I�m able & always enjoy hearing from list
friends.  *Please:  Remember to strip your emails to me of all superfluous
nonsense (!)�the web is slow here & computer time expensive.
Again, big thanks to the Caspars, Korkins, & Logans for their wonderful
hospitality--
& to Al Knoll (aka Pensioner) for his generous loan of binocs & the
Tarahumara book.

Wishing all of you a muy Feliz Navidad & Prospero Ano Nuevo!
Hasta luego, amigos & amigas--
Phaedra
�85 Westy �Basecamp�
  

 

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