----- Original Message -----
From: "Automatic digest processor" <LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
To: "Recipients of vanagon digests" <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 12:00 AM
Subject: vanagon Digest - 19 Feb 2002 (#2002-185)

> There are 11 messages totalling 441 lines in this issue.
>
> Topics of the day:
>
>   1. What do I need to install 15" wheels?
>   2. Water pump manufacturers
>   3. list
>   4. Engine Wear
>   5. Is your Vanagon as unlucky as mine.....windshield has taken
hitsseveral
>      times, even here on So CAL freeways
>   6. vanagon Digest - 19 Feb 2002 - Special issue (#2002-184)
>   7. Bottom ventilation lever
>   8. 83 Vanagon Fuel Tank Sound Dampening Pads Necessary?? (2)
>   9. 1985 Vanagon - temp. (degree) gauge not working
>  10. Selling one of my Westfalias (82 Diesel)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 22:24:16 EST
> From:    JordanVw@AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: What do I need to install 15" wheels?
>
> In a message dated 2/19/02 4:47:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> pokey@VANAGON.ORG writes:
>
>
> > what else I need to bolt them on to my van. Longer
> > studs? Special bolts?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
>
> carat lug bolts/nuts
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:27:07 -0800
> From:    Walter Evens <wrevens@MYEXCEL.COM>
> Subject: Re: Water pump manufacturers
>
> What's the difference?  My genuine Bosch cap and rotor were either made in
> Italy or Spain.  I think it was Italy.  I bought them because they were
> original equipment and expected them to be manufactured in Germany.
>
> Walter Evens
> Hesperia, CA, USA
> 2-85 GLs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey R" <Oxroad@AOL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 2:34 PM
> Subject: Re: Water pump manufacturers
>
>
> > I went with the genuine VW dealer waterpump for my 1.9 liter. I think it
> cost
> > about $110.
> >
> > I had ordered the water pump from a vendor for about $50, who told me on
> the
> > phone it was a Graf pump, made in Italy. By the time it arrived I had
> changed
> > my mind about putting an Italian water pump in my bus. No fault of the
> > vendor, who told me what I was getting, but I just thought...."I'm gonna
> go
> > with a German water pump." So I put the Graf in the garage as a "spare"
> and
> > ordered the water pump from the VW dealer. I think they only offer
rebuilt
> > water pumps for the Vanagon at this time, at least the 1.9 Liter.
> >
> > So the pump arrived with the correct VW part number and logo--a genuine
VW
> > part--and on it a sticker "remanufactured in Italy".
> >
> > Anyway I've gotten about 20,000 miles out of it so far. Seems to be
> working
> > fine. I'm hopeing it'll last a while.
> >
> > Jeff
> > 83.5 Westy
> > LA,CA
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/19/2002 12:57:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > mjcatlin@POSTOFFICE.PACBELL.NET writes:
> >
> > > I'm shopping for a water pump (p. no. 025 121 010C) for my '89 Gl.
Does
> > > anyone
> > >  have any comments about the quality of pumps made by the following?
> > >
> > >  Hepu
> > >  Laso
> > >  Graf
> > >  GMB
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:24:01 -0800
> From:    rudi schafner <schafner@GTE.NET>
> Subject: list
>
> i have available a complete pop-top [ASI] with all the moldings and =
> frame.bed .front box.and good canvas.fits 68-79 bus. rudi
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:59:17 -0600
> From:    Stan Wilder <wilden1@JUNO.COM>
> Subject: Re: Engine Wear
>
> And with all that said ........... Mr Wankel came along with a different
> problem, how to keep the Rs below 8000.
>
> Stan Wilder
>
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2002 21:45:22 EST Frank Grunthaner <FrankGRUN@AOL.COM>
> writes:
> > In a message dated 2/19/02 10:47:45 AM, al_knoll@PACBELL.NET writes:
> >
> > << Donning my Nomex...
> >
> >
> > I seem to recall that engine wear is proportional to piston feet per
> > mile.
> >
> > How far a piston travels in moving the car one mile.
> >
> >
> > Given same lubricants, operating temperatures, the motor with more
> > p-ft/mi
> >
> > will wear out sooner.
> >
> >
> > Of course there are many other elements in the wear equation too but
> > P-F/mi
> >
> > seemed important enough to "Rod and Truck" to include as a parameter
> > on
> >
> > their road tests. >>
> >
> > Al,
> >
> > True as far as it goes. More details in a long soliloquy I put in
> > the
> > archives about a year ago on piston speeds. To summarize, the
> > current
> > materials set (post 1980 for VW/Audi) allows the choice of wall
> > finishes,
> > materials, ring surfaces and compositions such that continual
> > operation at
> > 5000 rpm with high loads (1 HP per cubic inch) will give a 75% wear
> > point in
> > 300,000 km. This is in contrast with a 75% wear point on a 1985 Ford
> > V8 at
> > 80,000 miles. The point is that the engineer designs for a
> > load-wear-life p
> > rofile. Now it is true that you can reduce the piston ring wear for
> > the same
> > engine by 20% by operating it at 4000 rpm vs. 5000. But not the
> > whole story.
> >
> > The thermal transmission from friction and conduction is also a
> > strong
> > function rpm, load, etc., etc. But this curve is the locus of a
> > multi
> > dimensional plot in which there are real optimal values. Here the
> > engineers
> > (plural) set some finely tuned use parameters because this effects
> > the
> > thermal efficiency of the heat engine. These and other changes like
> > cam
> > timing, valve lift, chamber turbulence, intake runner length,
> > exhaust gas
> > pressure phasing, etc. all combine for optimal operating points.
> >
> > So a slugmobile (Ford Expedition) is tuned for maximum fuel
> > efficiency
> > (oxymoron, sorry) at 1700 rpm and probably gets 0.1 mpg more here
> > than at
> > 2000. The optimal operating point for the waterboxers and the inline
> > 4's is
> > given in the brake specific power per unit fuel flow curves in the
> > various VW
> > design papers I have posted on Alistair Bell's web site. For any
> > car, max
> > fuel economy and maximum life will coincide (per unit work done).
> > This
> > requires operation at that rpm, full throttle and gearing for
> > maximum load.
> > For any given engine rpm and extraction load, there is a consumption
> > graph
> > (Alistair doesn't have it posted yet)  that shows how much excess
> > fuel you
> > need to use to move a load at the non optimal values. Varies by 50%
> > over the
> > whole operating space.
> >
> > Oh well, if the engine is designed for high rpm run at high rpm. The
> > loss in
> > engine life compared to lower rpm running will be unmeasurable. Car
> > goes for
> > 200000 miles, or 250000 I still will have my money out of the
> > conveyance.
> >
> > BTW, as near as I can tell no similar data charts have ever been
> > published by
> > Fuji Heavy Industries. I can only conclude that they are shamed by
> > the
> > comparison with other competitive technologies!
> >
> > Frank Grunthaner
> >
> ________________________________________________________________
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 22:22:05 -0600
> From:    John Rodgers <jhrodgers@MINDSPRING.COM>
> Subject: Re: Is your Vanagon as unlucky as mine.....windshield has taken
>          hitsseveral times, even here on So CAL freeways
>
> "Smola, Tony" wrote:
>
> >
> > The van has such a vertical rake that it is just a huge stone
> > catcher.......I got to get a bra....but I've got the SA Quads, and I
havn't
> > found any bra which looks good with that setup.......A custom California
Car
> > Cover  Bra maybe?
> >
>
> Tony, some people are having truck bed liner sprayed on the front end
where the
> bra goes. When done right it looks sharp. Just make sure it's at least
"1/8" to
> 3/16" thick. Polyurethanes like Rhino Liner or LineX work, but I prefer
> polyureas like Defender. The polyureas are a bit tougher. and less prone
to tear
> or be cut.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John Rodgers
> 88 GL Driver
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:10:35 EST
> From:    Phillip Bouton <Dadtocarson@CS.COM>
> Subject: Re: vanagon Digest - 19 Feb 2002 - Special issue (#2002-184)
>
> In a message dated 2/19/2002 7:17:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>
>
> > Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:31:48 -0800
> > From:    BajaLeo <bajaleo@COX.NET>
> > Subject: Bottom ventilation lever
> >
> My 87 Westy has two vents above the sliding door.  The bottom control
lever
> opens and closes this vent.  Not noticable from the front seat.
>
> *<>*<*>*<>*<*>*<>*<*>*<>*
> Phillip Bouton
> 87 Westy
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 23:12:51 -0500
> From:    David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
> Subject: Re: Bottom ventilation lever
>
> At 09:31 PM 2/19/2002, BajaLeo wrote:
> >roof outlets in passenger compartment. As I don't have roof outlets, I
> >removed the glovebox to see what the lever was doing. It is operating a
> >lever right behind the glovebox. Does anyone know what the function is?
>
> It opens the connection from the blower box to a big fat steel tube that
> runs athwartships behind the dash and ends in rectangular openings at each
> door frame.  There is a corresponding tube through each door that feeds
the
> air into rectangular grilles in  the B-pillars, then up and back to two
> small vents on each side at the curve of the roof.
>
> On the Westy the left-side hole is blocked off at the front of the
driver's
> door frame because the Westy has no vents on that side.
>
> See how much of that setup you have...
>
> david
>
>
> --
> David Beierl - Providence, RI
>   http://pws.prserv.net/synergy/Vanagon/
> '84 Westy "Dutiful Passage"
> '85 GL "Poor Relation"
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:42:00 -0800
> From:    John Clemens <jbclem@EARTHLINK.NET>
> Subject: 83 Vanagon Fuel Tank Sound Dampening Pads Necessary??
>
> I just reinstalled my fuel tank and then I read about checking to make
sure
> the sound dampening pads were in place.  I didn't remember seeing anything
> when I took off the straps, but I did find, on the ground under the car,
two
> identical looking items that might qualify.  They were about 1/16 to 1/8
> inch thick, 3/4 inch wide, 1 1/2 inch long.  There were only two, and I
> can't find them now.  I just lowered one of the straps to see if there
were
> any pads fixed to it, but there weren't, and I  don't rermember seeing
> anything like that.  The strap(passenger side) when tightened in place, is
> not completely tight(the gas tank is empty) and I can wiggle it a bit.
Not
> so with the other side.
>
> Should I make up a shim of somekind(cardboard or piece of wood) to act as
a
> sound dampner/shim.  How important is this and what kind of noise could
> result if I leave them out and they are necessary?
>
>
> John
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:49:05 -0800
> From:    Larry Word <wordlarry2002@YAHOO.COM>
> Subject: 1985 Vanagon - temp. (degree) gauge not working
>
> I have a problem w/ my temp. (degree) gauge.
>
> My water level light works perfectly.....blinks
> initially then after registering water level ok, it
> turns off....
>
> I never get anything out of my temp. degree gauge,
> which is odd because it worked reliably prior to my
> recent head gasket job.......
>
> Any thoughts of what "I left off" to cause
> this......all my FI grounds are good (I am running
> well otherwise......).  Mine has two sender unit
> wirers on my thermostat housing: (1) FI type w/ clip,
> and (2) a female (1/4 inch) that clips over plug.
> Which wire (2 mentioned above) does what???
>
> Pls. advise as to how to check system and get my temp.
> degree gauge working again....its too important.
>
> Larry
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:58:52 -0800
> From:    Robert Dalton <dieselsong@YAHOO.COM>
> Subject: Selling one of my Westfalias (82 Diesel)
>
> This 1982 (browny van) has 94.5K original miles.  It
> has been garaged or under cover most of its life.  A
> great sounding diesel with a custom sub-woofer stereo.
>  It gets the EPA 29/29 mpg on the flat or in local
> driving.  $6900.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
> http://sports.yahoo.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date:    Tue, 19 Feb 2002 20:58:54 -0800
> From:    Walter Evens <wrevens@MYEXCEL.COM>
> Subject: Re: 83 Vanagon Fuel Tank Sound Dampening Pads Necessary??
>
> John:
>
> Having recently removed and replaced my fuel tank, I encountered the same
> problem except that my "pads" were so flat on the passenger side that they
> didn't make contact with the tank.  I cut about an inch or so of 5 mm fuel
> line, laid them lengthwise on the strap (or they would roll off) and
cinched
> it up.  It took the slack out and made it tight again.  Another thought
> could be to use some self sticking foam weather stripping maybe 1/4 to 3/8
> thick.  However, you'd have to make sure the surface to stick to was
clean.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Walter Evens
> Hesperia, CA, USA
> 2-85GLs
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Clemens" <jbclem@EARTHLINK.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 5:42 PM
> Subject: 83 Vanagon Fuel Tank Sound Dampening Pads Necessary??
>
>
> > I just reinstalled my fuel tank and then I read about checking to make
> sure
> > the sound dampening pads were in place.  I didn't remember seeing
anything
> > when I took off the straps, but I did find, on the ground under the car,
> two
> > identical looking items that might qualify.  They were about 1/16 to 1/8
> > inch thick, 3/4 inch wide, 1 1/2 inch long.  There were only two, and I
> > can't find them now.  I just lowered one of the straps to see if there
> were
> > any pads fixed to it, but there weren't, and I  don't rermember seeing
> > anything like that.  The strap(passenger side) when tightened in place,
is
> > not completely tight(the gas tank is empty) and I can wiggle it a bit.
> Not
> > so with the other side.
> >
> > Should I make up a shim of somekind(cardboard or piece of wood) to act
as
> a
> > sound dampner/shim.  How important is this and what kind of noise could
> > result if I leave them out and they are necessary?
> >
> >
> > John
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of vanagon Digest - 19 Feb 2002 (#2002-185)
> ***********************************************
>