Hmmm....well, I guess the Bentley has got it all wrong then?  Your procedure
does sound pretty good, but I am at a loss on the "thermostat bypass valve"
you mention--I assume it's a way to manually open the thermostat?  That
would be perfect....
On raising the front, I have always assumed that was to get air bubbles to
work their way to the bleeder screw.  How does your method take care of
that?
I am not suggesting that he add cold water to the warm engine--room
temperature mixed with coolant, then diluted in the tank, will not cause
warped heads.
Isn't 70% coolant WAY too much?  I thought the range was something like
45-55%, or maybe 40-60%
Anyway, I'd like to hear more...
tx,
bmc  :)
"Faith will move mountains, but you'd better bring a shovel...."

> From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
> Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 12:06:51 -0500
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Bleeding the front radiator
>
> NO NO NO! Do not warm up the engine. A warm engine makes the coolant
> turn to vapor with the coolant system open. This makes bleeding
> difficult. Also, never add coolant to a hot running engine. Helps make
> warped heads. Also, there is no need to raise the front. In fact it
> makes things harder as you have to raise the coolant that much further
> to bleed the system. Try this procedure.
>
> 1) Engine should be dead cold. If not successful bleeding in 10 minutes,
> Walk away, have lunch, beer etc, come back later.
>
> 2) Prepare coolant supply, have ready. Pre-mixing will make it easier to
> keep proper ratio.
>
> 3) Open thermostat bypass valve and valves to both heater cores.
>
> 4) Fill main reservoir as much as possible. Allow time for as much
> coolant to fill into engine as possible.
>
> 5) Start engine. Use something to hold engine speed around 2,000 to
> 2,500 rpm.
>
> 6) Open radiator bleeder (partner will help).
>
> 7) Continue to fill cooling system while air is being expelled from
> bleeder and reservoir.
>
> 8) When both flow water steadily, close radiator bleeder, then reinstall
> cooling pressure cap, (It was tested and know to be good?). You can also
> close the bypass now.
>
> 9) Allow engine to return to normal idle speed.
>
> 10) Return heater valves to where you want them. Test system. Make sure
> radiator fan works. Don't forget to top off the expansion tank behind
> the license plate. Any residual air will eventually work its way out. If
> not, than you a problem.
>
> 11) After van is operated for a while, test coolant concentration to
> make certain you have the proper mixture, (50-70%).
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Ben McCafferty
> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 11:23 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Bleeding the front radiator
>
> Raise the front of the van 10cm or 40cm, depending on which version of
> Bentley you believe, warm up the van until the thermostat opens, hold
> the
> engine at 2000 RPM with the pressure cap off, and crack the bleed screw
> on
> the radiator.  It's a 13mm on the passenger side, top.  Don't take is
> all
> the way out, just loosen it.  Add coolant/water mixture as needed in the
> tank, and watch the stream coming out of the radiator.  When it runs
> free of
> bubbles, you can close the screw.  Make sure to close the pressure cap
> before you drop the engine below 2000 RPM or it will blow hot coolant
> everywhere.
>
> Some guys do this process several times over a week or so to make sure
> you
> get all the bubbles.
>
> tx,
> bmc  :)
> "Faith will move mountains, but you'd better bring a shovel...."
>
>
>> From: Chris Winesette <Chriswinesette@AOL.COM>
>> Reply-To: Chriswinesette@AOL.COM
>> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 10:53:32 EST
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Bleeding the front radiator
>>
>> What is the best way to bleed the front radiator?
>>
>