In a message dated 3/12/02 6:01:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lalanne@IX.NETCOM.COM writes:

>
> Better fix
>
> 1.  Remove mirror.
> 2.  Clean oxidized contact surfaces.
> 3.  Disassemble the nut/spring assembly, making note of where things go.
>
> 4.  Insert a washer cut from thin polyethylene (a plastic milk carton is
> ideal) on either side of the spring (I used a dime for the exterior
> pattern, and punched the hole out with a paper hole punch).
> 5.  Tighten the nut and reassemble.
>
> This works well to keep the mirror in position yet allows it to be
> positioned without the fear of ripping it out by its roots.  The washer
> will wear out in a couple of years, but it is easily and, certainly,
> cheaply replaced.
>
> The big whammy (if the stud is loose)
>
> You will need:
> tube of JB Weld
> vise
> Vise Grips
> bench grinder (wear safety goggles/gloves)
>
> 1.  Remove mirror from door.
> 2.  Disassemble the nut/spring assembly.
> 3.  Place the arm of the mirror in a vise so that you can pull on the
> stud extending from the swivel part and it won't slip. Pad it the mirror
> with old socks, and do not tighten the vise too tight or you might crack
> the plastic exterior.
> 4.  With a vise grip, grasp the smooth part of the shaft & clamp down
> firmly.
> 5.  Pull the stud. Pull some more. Pull hard enough to pull it out.
> 6.  When stud is removed, look at the way the bolt emerges from the
> socket. Remember it.
> 7.  Use the grinder to remove material from the surfaces of each of the
> six sides and end to make room for JB Weld to fuse the metal stud and
> the white cast metal of the mirror support arm.  Remove ~ .5-1 mm from
> each surface.
> 8.  Periodically test fit the stud to fit loosely in the previous home
> of the mirror support arm. You want enough room to spread some JB weld
> in there, and to get good contact between the two.
> 9.  Mix JB Weld.
> 10.  Spread some JB Weld into the hole. Use a toothpick to get good
> coverage on the surfaces down in there. Spread some JB Weld onto the
> surface of the stud. Not too much, just coat all surfaces.
> 11.  Insert stud so that it resembles it's position before you removed
> it.
> 12.  Clean around area of socket to ensure smooth surface contact
> between the ball and the socket.
> 13.  Loosely assemble to look for clearances. Fix any problems.
> Disassemble for curing.
> 14.  Position the mirror for curing so that the stud protruding from the
> arm now points straight up or position a clamp to hold it in place
> during curing.
> 15.  After about a day or so reassemble and enjoy a tight mirror.
>
> Happy views to the rear.
>
> Tom LaLanne
> '86 Westy Weekender
>

LOL  good grief..you know those things are like only $25 new from the
busdepot.....not even worth the above hassle.. LOL
chris