

| Subject: | Re: Q about the inline 4 VW engine, Oil pressure switch. |
| From: | David Marshall |
| Date: | Mon, 1 Apr 2002 10:32:20 -0800 |
Who knows what switch Cambodian Tire put in there - the switch is supposed to be closed at 1.8BAR and the alarm is supposed to go off if 1.8BAR isn't achived at 2000RPM - get a real Bosch switch there something like $15. David Marshall Fast Forward Automotive Inc. 4356 Quesnel Hixon Road Quesnel BC Canada V2J 6Z3 http://www.fastforward.ca mailto:sales@fastforward.ca Phone: (250) 992 7775 FAX: (250) 992 1160 - Vanagon Accessories and Engine Conversions - Vanagon, Transporter and Iltis Sales and Importation - European Lighting for most Volkswagen models -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On Behalf Of Stones Sent: March 28, 2002 11:58 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Q about the inline 4 VW engine, Oil pressure switch. On the inline 4 gasoline engine (Taken from a 1996 Cabriolet) anybody know the oil pressure switch well? While my SO was driving it, the oil light came on, so she pulled into the Canadian Tire garage parking lot (She swears she was only a block away) and called me. Anyway, it was leaking oil around the pressure switch (Atop the pump outlet, right over where the oil filter screws on from beneath), so we just let the Canadian Tire garage guys put their aftermarket pressure switch in... Now, the oil light comes on whenever the engine RPMs stay over 2300 for a few seconds... My question is shouldn't the switch be a 2 position normally open, such that the oil pressure closes the switch before the engine gets to 200 RPM, and then the lead is grounded, to cause no oil light? With the engine off, and the wire removed, I test the switch and it is grounded. (Closed) When I start the engine up (Cold, 20w40, idling at about 1100 RPM) the switch opens within a couple of seconds. Forgive me if I'm overlooking the obvious but this HAS to be a normally closed switch, did the FLAPS guys give me an incorrect part? They insist that it's the correct switch for the engine (They really don't like my van much though. it bothers them)... I guess what I'm looking for is confirmation that the switch should be a normally open, and that my tests are the correct way to determine that it isn't... Anyone out there more sure of themself than I? Thanks in advance.
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