Just forwarding it for Phaedra.

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Easter March 2002
Patzcuaro, Mexico

Saludos Amigos!
Mea culpa�I have been remiss in travel dispatches to this
list, but am alive & well�despite two mechanical problems &
theft of my pooch & all my camping gear!

Big thanks to Mike Miller, Jim Arnot, & others for
troubleshooting when the radiator fan stopped running: it�s
now �fixed.�  

Turns out the female half of the fan switch behind the front
grille is shot� but my pal Terry quickly fashioned a small
U-shaped double spade connector--which I insert when the
engine is running�easier on the battery.  Connected, the fan
runs constantly on low speed; if the motor runs too cool, I
disconnect it. Voila!

In January, I left the delightful Pacific coast villages
north of Puerto Vallarta & made my way along the coast as
far as Acapulco, then headed to my little village
near Cuernavaca, then west again in the central highlands.
San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato served as home base for a
month.  I rented a 400-plus year old casa antigua (circa
1547) a few blocks from the little central plaza.

The front portal�tall & wide enough to accommodate a
carriage & horses�-had an intriguing system of ancient,
hand-wrought iron chains, hasps, & stout metal cross bars.
Every night I would literally bar the door!  This heavy,
mesquite wood portal opened onto a series of multi-level
flag stone patios.  An enormous blue & white tiled fountain
stood in the center, topped with a three-tiered, carved
stone (cantera) bird bath.

This casa antigua provided guest quarters for various
visiting friends.  From there we made side trips to the
colonial cities of Guanajuato, Queretero, Dolores Hidalgo,
the mining ghost town of Pozos, & myriad other fascinating
destinations in the central highlands.

(The day I was moving into my casa, thieves robbed my van of
camping gear�-two sleeping bags, camp stove, Kelty Sunshade,
knives, bedding, & even Pensioner�s loaner bird binocs!
They also broke off my radio antenna.  Luckily, I had
already unloaded much of the van�s contents.)

Worst of all, the same thieves stole my little rescue dog,
Sheba.  It was a painful setback.  But since this is the
first theft I�ve had in Mexico in over thirty years of
travel, I refuse to let it dampen my spirits.  Besides, I
mistakenly left the back hatch unlocked...(And it could have
been worse:  I still have my laptop, clothes, books, auto
tools, spare parts, etc.)

Today is Easter Sunday�the final day of Semana Santa�a week
of pageantry & celebration all over Latin America.  For two
weeks now, I�ve been in Patzcuaro, a truly lovely colonial
lake town (7500 ft elevation) in the mountains of Michoacan.
I�m the guest of a lively group of expats from the States
who rent adobe homes on a hillside outside the pueblo,
surrounded by tall cactus, bougainvillia, & fragrant groves
of eucalyptus trees.

Later today, I plan to whip up a batch of fresh shrimp
ceviche�with a salsa of fresh mango, jicima, hot yellow
peppers & cilantro over a bed of fresh spinach ribbons�then
stroll down the hill to Dave & Kate�s charming adobe, where
a small group of us will celebrate Easter with a gourmet pot
luck supper. 

!Que milagro! Yesterday I discovered one last bottle of
Chandon Brut Champagne under the jump seat of my van!  Dave
& Kate, new friends, but practically neighbors of mine in
coastal N CA, are professional caterers�so my mouth is
already watering in anticipation!

My travel funds are alarmingly low due to necessary
replacement of some gear.  But help is on the way!
Looking forward to home again & online with the list.

UPDATE: April 6, near Cuernavaca
Several days ago while filling up at a Pemex station, the
O-rings on the overflow T-pipe popped out & dumped gas under
the van.  

Luckily, I found Carlos wrenching beneath his shade-tree
next door to the Pemex.  I grabbed the Bentley, but Carlos
was already positioning his floor jack under the gas tank;
he scoffed when I suggested disconnecting the ground strap
to the battery...In less than an hour, Carlos & his brother,
Eduardo, lowered the tank, checked the T-pipe, & pulled the
offending O-rings, cleaned & put them back in position.

O Dread! O-rings leaked gas on the trial run! Carlos pulled
them again, this time with blind fingers thru the wheel
well.  The O-rings were badly misshapen, despite being new
less than two years ago.  Carlos trimmed & reshaped them to
fit. When they continued to drip gas, Carlos glued them into
place.   Labor:  $20.00.  I�ve driven 15 hours since the
repair with no leaking--but I am holding my breath!  These
O-rings are not available in Mexico.

Soon, I suppose, I am finally heading home: across central
Mexico to Tepic, then along the Pacific coast to the border
at Nogales�then across AZ to San Diego & on up the coast to
my redwood hideout in N CA.  If the jury-rigged & glued
O-rings will just hold to the border!

At this point I intend leaving the T-pipe situation AS IS,
since it works for now.  I detect no sign of a leak with the
engine running & no obvious gas loss according to the
gauge...HOWEVER, there is a mild odor of gas when driving.
Any thoughts on this?

Should these O-rings pop again, I�d appreciate suggestions
for further jury rigging, etc.  Once I reach the US, the
parts should be in stock at dealerships.
(Am I dreaming?)

Wish me luck--I�ll definately need it!
Phaedra
�85 Westy �Basecamp�
psavage@mexconnect.com

  

!Que les vaya bien!
Phaedra
psavage@mexconnect.com

  

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