

| Subject: | Re: Front blower fix: Free and permanent (long) |
| From: | Ben McCafferty |
| Date: | Thu, 18 Apr 2002 07:56:07 -0600 |
Cool, Bob! In the IV vein (pun intended), I think you should add a hook next to your rear-view mirror, from which you can hang a clear pint bag of wd-40, which will supply a slow but steady drip to the motor... bmc :) "Faith will move mountains, but you'd better bring a shovel...." > From: Bob Whitby <rpwhitby@MINDSPRING.COM> > Reply-To: Bob Whitby <rpwhitby@MINDSPRING.COM> > Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2002 19:03:09 -0700 > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Front blower fix: Free and permanent (long) > > Hola Vanagoneers: > At the risk of getting off the enlightening topic of Mexicans and insurance, > I'd like to report my findings vis-a-vis my front blower, and also make public > a modification that I hope will extend the life of my front blower well into > the millenium. > > First the symptoms: Turned on blower, it made a horrible scraping noise, then > stopped. The fuse popped shortly thereafter, as did two more. I went directly > to the archives where I learned that I was in for THE DREADED FRONT BLOWER > REMOVAL EXPEDITION wherein hapless Vanagon owners disassemble the entire > dashboard to get to this crappy little DC motor about the size of a baby's > head. I bravely dove in to the job and am here to report that it just ain't as > bad as most make it out to be. Laborious, yes. And damn but the van do look > ugly when all is said and done. Not for the faint of heart. But I had no > problems, other than a shear bolt that refused to budge from the steering > column. I tried JB welding a nut to the shear bolt, but that didn't hold. > Finally I drilled it and used a screw extractor. The metal is very soft and it > came out, but it is of course ruined. (Anyone got a spare?) > > Once you get the blower box out, however, you're only about half way home. The > blower is sealed in the box like it was the freakin' arc of the covenant. What > exactly is the point of heat welding this thing together? Is the air pressure > so great it would blow apart if not for this ridiculous sealing method? I > ended up sawing the heat-welded tabs off with a hacksaw blade and it still > took me an hour and a half to get the thing apart. Overkill? Planned > obsolesence? You be the judge. > > Once I got the blower out I immediately noticed it was hard to turn by hand. > Bingo. A lot of WD-40 and a little persuasion later and the thing was spinning > like a hippy at a Phish show. I hooked it up to the battery in the Ghia and it > purred on all three speeds. I have a little experience with this sort of > thing. I rescued and kept alive a H*nda alternator for 20,000 plus miles just > by shooting it full of WD-40, and to this day I kept a can in my C*vic to > squirt in the distributor every now and then. H*ndas have a nasty habit of > eating their distributors, so every time I hear the death squeal I pull over, > pop cap and hit it with a generous squirt. Good for another 5k miles or so. > > So I lubed up the old fan motor, then had six or seven beers (congratulating > myself for all the money I saved) and got to thinking: If there was a way to > squirt the old blower motor now and then with some WD-40 it just might last > forever. > > So I went to the hardware store and got 3 feet of very small pvc hose, the > clear kind used for fish tanks and such. I drilled a hole just large enough > for the hose in the driver's side windshield vent on the top of the air box. > Passed the hose through that, then drilled another small hole in the housing > right above the blower motor. I carefully positioned the end of the tube right > where I wanted the juice to flow then taped it to the motor. (God bless duct > tape.) Run the pvc hose through the holes and eventually it will come out of > the air vent on the dashboard. Yeah so it will look like an IV hookup on a > chemo patient. Big deal. My fan motor will be loose and yours won't. > > Now every once and awhile, say when I change the oil, I'll give the motor a > squirt. Blow through the hose and I can "aerate" the lubricant. Little > particles all over the place. Look it up in your physics book. > > So I figure I save $700 or so by not paying someone else to take apart the > dash, and not buying a new motor from Bus Depot ($100 -- I thought someone > said these motors were cheap). > > All in all I'd say that's worth five hours of work. > > Bob W. > 87 Westy >
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