This weekend I finally got a chance to check out the aux air valve.

I was able to blow through it when the engine was cold.  In the process of checking it, I found several of the vacuum lines were bad (cracked or deteriorated).  I replaced them all and one of the 1/2" to 1/4 inch fittings.  I also used clamps, not being trustful of vacuum lines that just slide on.

After replacing the lines, I started it up and went back through the basic checks.  Even though I could blow through the valve when the engine was cold, pinching the vacuum line this time produced no change in the engine operation.

Additionally, when the engine is cold, it idles beautifully for about 5 seconds, then drops down to around 250 RPM, chug-chugs for about 2 - 3 seconds before dying all together.  If I try to tap the accellerator to bring it back up when it is chugging, it quits.  However, I found that if I can catch it while it is running good, or just starting to die, I can hold it at about 1200 - 1500 RPM until it starts to warm up, then start off. Whether the idle stabilizer is bypassed or not, the engine runs the same.

When the engine is only 'luke warm', it idles erratically, but when it is at operating temperature, it idles rather nicely.

To date, here is what I have fixed / replaced:

Air flow meter (new)
Distributor (rebuilt bosch)
Cap and rotor (bosch)
plug wires (OEM with shield)
plugs (bosch platinum)
vacuum lines

I am at a loss as to why it would idle, though not consistently, when there were numerous vacuum leaks and not at all when the leaks were repaired....?

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