Robert Donalds wrote:

> I have seen the WBX broken stud problem once or twice
> the studs become corroded etched mostly at the base of the stud near the block and you might see that more than stud that is pitted when you look closely. the stud is often not willing to turn even with a nut or extension of some sorts added to it. I have had limited luck drilling this as they are hardened and down in the corner of the coolant jacket. I have sent them to Jerry's Broken drill and tap Santa Anna don't have the # . they have metal disintegrator that cores the stud then it comes right out. to do this the block must be stripped and cleaned
> or you could by a long block from me
> Bob
> http://www.bostonengine.com

Bob, When I was active in the aviation industry, the shops where I would work, and even some guys out in the field, had little jigs that were designed to allow one to set up and drill straight down through the center  a stud. After that a tool called and "Ease-out" was used to back the stud out. The ease-out had a left-hand thread, sharp edges on the thread, and it't pitch was extremely course, like maybe 1:3 -- one turn of thread in three inches of length . Anyway, if the stud was drilled out sufficiently it was usually not much more than a shell, and
the thread of the Ease-out would catch, and get a deeper bite as you turned the ease-out counter clockwise. I don't recall ever seeing a failure when the stud was drilled right. And some of those aircraft engine studs - especially on the big radial engines - were awsome.

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver