I would think that a home type fiberglass insulation in the front doors
would cause some serious moisture absorption problems and eventually
rusting in there.

Max
At 12:28 PM 5/27/2002 -0500, Andrew Bell wrote:
>Hey Max -
>
>I just noise-proofed he '87 Syncro. This is my second Van, and the first,
>an '84
>GL was done with conventional DynaMat to the tune of $125 for a portion of the
>space I thought should be 'Matted.
>
>With this Syncro, I took a different approach and used spray on rubberized
>undercoating to replace the DynaMat. In the large panel areas I tossed in some
>fiberglass to deaden it. the Syncro was REALLY noisy before, and now it's even
>quieter than the other Van turned out to be. As for the front doors, I got
>some
>cups that go behind the speaks (I have the JBL GTO 2x kit...) sprayed the heck
>out of the door with some insulation on the extreme top and bottom.
>
>With the insulation it was about $32 - $7 for the insulation, and the
>balance on
>the "professional" grade undercoating.
>
>Just what I did -
>
>AB
>
>Max Wellhouse wrote:
>
> > My poor old 20 year old Nakamichi SP400 stereo speakers finally coughed up
> > their last Basia tune the other day, and after finding out replacement
> > drivers for them ran $80 each from the Nak website, I went speaker
> > shopping.  didn't like anything I heard until I listened to a set of 6"
> > Focal 2 way  165H's at a high end car stereo place in town.  Tweeters are
> > separate and have their own crossover and the kit was about $300(their
> > kevlar woofer model was like $550 a set!).  Installed the woofer(really a
> > big mid range as I have 8" R/F Punch woofers under the back seat) about a
> > foot up from the bottom of the door and the tweeter under the stock
> > Vanagon location.  They don't sound nearly as good in the van as they did
> > in the store, and after feeling how much the bottom of the door vibrates
> > with this new 6 " speaker in there, I think I see why Dynamat is in
> business.
> >
> > The Dynamat is supposed to soak up the vibration and make the speaker sound
> > better and I've heard enough testimonials to that effect to be
> > convinced.  My question(s) run something like this:
> > 1.  With the fresh air channel in the van's front doors, how do you
> > properly clean the metal door surface so the Dynamat will stick?  Not only
> > is it dirty under there, It appears to be hell getting any cleaning
> > technique to work.  I assume I leave the factory plastic intact, or do I
> > remove it for cleaning and install and then return it or replace it after
> > I'm done?
> > 2.  Dynamat sales folk say the Extreme Dynamat requires less "rolling and
> > heating" and is lighter weight(guessing for roof installations).  Is it
> > worth the extra cost considering the tight quarters we're working with?
> > 3.  Does the entire door need to be deadend or just "x" number of square
> > feet near the speaker?  I couldn't believe how much that door shook with
> > the volume up
> > 4.  Any tips on advantages of doing other vehicle panels with this
> > stuff.  It is kinda expensive, but a quieter van is a good thing I think,
> > stereo or no stereo.
> > 5. What sort of solvent/cleaner worked best in your experience?  Acetone?
> > Xylene? Zep orange stuff? Misty LimoSol?  409?
> >
> > I can't  imagine doing the roof of the van, but any help on doing floors/
> > firewall /back hatch/rear bed area/side door/side panels would be greatly
> > appreciated.  There has to be a point of diminishing returns here and I may
> > do this project one section at a time as funds are available.  I do have to
> > save enough money here to buy a new radiator this summer!!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dimwitted Moose and Flying Squirrel