1. Yes. Do it. You'll save yourself some roadside annoyance- and make 
sure you replace the tensioner as well, as it's more often the cause of 
belt failure. Chances are, you'll notice a bunch of other things that 
will need replacing while you're in there:
-all other belts
-lower timing cover (may be warped and hitting the pulleys/belts)
-if you're adventurous, there's no better time to replace the 3 shaft 
seals (crank, intermediate, cam), since you'll have everything out of 
the way.
2. The angle doesn't matter- your enemy will be clearance... but I can't 
imagine you'd have less working room than was available in the '75-'84 
cars. As long as you can get a wrench on the nuts 'n bolts on the end of 
the crank, you'll do fine.
3. Depends... exactly which 2.0 do you have? If it's the 3A from an Audi 
80, or originally was a VW or Audi 1.8 of some sort, then you need 
part # 056 109 119A, which is $7 at germanautoparts.com. If it's the 2.0 
from a '93-'98 VW, then you need 037 109 119C, $12.50. Tack on $15 if 
you plan on buying from the dealer...

On Wednesday, May 29, 2002, at 07:32  PM, Hermann the German wrote:

>
>
> Before I go on my summer trip to Newfoundland I want to replace the 
> timing belt on my Eurospec conversion. Here are some questions for the 
> more experienced listees. I appreciate your help:
>
> 1. Does VW really�recommend replacing the belt at 70 000miles?
>
> 2. How hard is the work re: the fact that the engine is slanted at 53*?
>
> 3.How much is the timing belt for a 2.0l Golf/Audi hybrid?
>
> Any info/advice is welcome.TIA.Cheers,
>
> Hermann de Boer
>
>
> Kansas City,Missouri
>
> 87 Westy "Eurospec"
>
> 89 Syncro GL
>
> "...even if you win the rat race, you are still a rat..."
>

>

>
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