

| Subject: | Re: castle nuts/tie rod ends? |
| From: | John Rodgers |
| Date: | Mon, 3 Jun 2002 14:46:07 -0500 |
Andrew Fox wrote: > Just installled a rebuilt PS rack (3rd one for this van!). This one had > tie rod ends attached that were in better shape than mine so I used the > new ones. The old ones had castle nuts and the bolt had a hole going thru > it for a cotter pin. The new rack did not come with nuts and the bolt > does not have a hole for a cotter pin. Do I use the castle nut without > the cotter pin? Should i put a second nut on to make sure it does not > come undone? Andrew, I like positive locking mechanisms on components which, were they to separate, could cause a disaster. Things like steering components on Vanagons, flight control components on airplanes, etc. There are some friction lock type nuts out there, but you will never ever beat a drilled bolt, castilated (castle) nut, and cotter pen combination. I had a 68 Aircooled once in Alaska. I could neve keep the CV bolts from backing out on one side. I put a positive lock on the bolts and cured the problem. This was accomplished by drilling a hole completely through the bolt heads, and after tightening to correct torque, running aircraft safety wire through the holes in a way that the wire always was pulling in a tightening right hand direction. No more problems. Easy on the early aircooled vans. Not easy on the vanagon, as the outboard CV's are recessed and to hard to get to. Good luck, John Rodgers 88 GL Driver
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