

| Subject: | Re: Vanagon handling. |
| From: | Stan Wilder |
| Date: | Mon, 10 Jun 2002 17:02:39 -0500 |
Did you replace the tie rod ends and ball joints and buschings yourself? ------------------------- $275.00 Labor on installing my parts $42.00 alignment, got parts from Bus Depot about $200.00 Stan On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:56:39 -0700 mike ingle <mikei@ANCORE.COM> writes: > Thanks, so it sounds like I want to scavenge my springs off my 80 > westy. > Did you replace the tie rod ends and ball joints and buschings > yourself? > How big is the job (afternoon or whole weekend ++) > > Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <wilden1@juno.com> > To: <mikei@ancore.com> > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 11:03 AM > Subject: Re: Vanagon handling. > > > > My 83 handles firmer and drives straighter than 85-87 Vanagons > I've > > driven.(never driven an 85-87 Westy) > > I have Agilis 61 tires the 83 and they have greatly improved the > > handling. > > Everything else is stock with 150K on the shocks but new ball > joints, tie > > rod ends, control arm bushings. > > Hope this helps. > > 80-83 Vanagons and Westies had the stiffest springs ever > installed, even > > heavier than any stock syncro. > > > > Stan Wilder > > 83 Air Cooled Westfalia > > > > > > On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:48:23 -0700 "mike ingle" > <mikei@ancore.com> > > writes: > > > I have no inherent desire to do major parts swapping, The real > > > question is: > > > Does the 87 w/ power steering and good shocks, and tie rod ends > > > ball > > > joints... handle as well as the manual steered 80? > > > > > > Can I just get rid of the 80 w/ confidence that good handling > can > > > be > > > restored to the 87 using stock replacements? > > > In case you can't tell I really appreciate the Vanagon > handling, > > > compared to > > > the type ii. And the space. > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <wilden1@juno.com> > > > To: <mikei@ANCORE.COM> > > > Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 10:34 AM > > > Subject: Re: Vanagon handling. > > > > > > > > > > The steering control arms on the later model power steering > arms > > > are > > > > shorter, IE you'll need to change the spindles. > > > > Outer wheel bearings are bigger on the later models. > > > > Springs will swap. > > > > Rack and pinion will swap, using old 80 spindles. > > > > I think I'd be looking for a simpler solution, new shocks, > front > > > end > > > > alignment, ball joints or such and bypass the parts swapping. > > > > > > > > Stan Wilder > > > > > > > > On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:08:24 -0700 mike ingle > <mikei@ANCORE.COM> > > > writes: > > > > > I have an 80 Westfalia which I just replaced with an 87 > > > weekender. I > > > > > test > > > > > drove it away from a highway, and didn't notice the > difference > > > in > > > > > handling. > > > > > > > > > > The 87 seems to have several inches more ground clearance, > and > > > a > > > > > much softer > > > > > suspension. It also has power steering (yuck). The jist of > it > > > is > > > > > that > > > > > unlike my 80 and my old 82 diesel westy (oh how I miss that > one) > > > , > > > > > It feels > > > > > less stable than a type ii (73 to be exact). So, before I > > > > > donate... the 80 > > > > > Westy, Is it feasable to change out the power steering for > rack > > > and > > > > > pinion > > > > > manual steering? What about the springs etc. Visually I > like > > > the > > > > > high > > > > > clearance, and I can imagine that I would be nice for those > > > rough > > > > > areas. > > > > > But, I really miss the good handling. > > > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "Michael Ramer" <elvisramer@COX.NET> > > > > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 9:46 AM > > > > > Subject: Re: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yes, what Ken said works great! And do both heads! You do > not > > > want > > > > > to go > > > > > > through this again. Easier to do it now. > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Mike > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > > From: "Kenneth Wilford" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET> > > > > > > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > > > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 5:19 AM > > > > > > Subject: Re: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I have found the easiest way to do this. Pull the > heads > > > out > > > > > from the > > > > > > block > > > > > > > about 1/2 inch. Take the end of a screw driver and > place > > > it > > > > > against one > > > > > > of > > > > > > > the little nubs that stick out at the top of the > cylinder. > > > Now > > > > > you want > > > > > > to > > > > > > > hit this nub in such as way that you turn the cylinder > just > > > a > > > > > little. > > > > > You > > > > > > > only want to turn it a couple of degrees. Once it > turns > > > (should > > > > > only > > > > > take > > > > > > a > > > > > > > couple of hits) you want to go to the nub on the > opposite > > > side > > > > > of the > > > > > > > cylinder and turn it back. Now do the same with the > other > > > > > cylinder. > > > > > Now > > > > > > > just put your screw driver between the head and one of > > > these > > > > > nubs and > > > > > pry > > > > > > > just a little. The cylinder should come right off of > the > > > head > > > > > and then > > > > > > > repeat for the other cylinder. This should not hurt > the > > > o-rings > > > > > at the > > > > > > > bottom of the cylinder since you are actually pulling > the > > > bottom > > > > > of the > > > > > > > cylinder away from the block about 1/2 inch. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I did this the last head job I did and it worked like a > > > charm. > > > > > No > > > > > damage > > > > > > > done and alot less hitting, and time consumed. Hope > this > > > > > helps. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > Ken Wilford > > > > > > > John 3:16 > > > > > > > http://www.vanagain.com > > > > > > > Phone: (856)-327-4936 > > > > > > > Fax: (856)-327-2242 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > > > From: Vanagon Mailing List > > > [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com]On > > > > > Behalf > > > > > > > Of Craig Oda - Personal email > > > > > > > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 1:02 AM > > > > > > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > > > > > Subject: Cylinder head sticking to cylinder sleeve > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm in the process of taking off my cylinder head and > the > > > > > sleeves are > > > > > > > sticking to it. I've tried whacking the cylinder head > with > > > a > > > > > wooden > > > > > > > stick in an attempt to loosen it up. No go. I've been > > > getting > > > > > help > > > > > > > from Dave who is having a similar adventure with his > > > "Wolfy." > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Dave used a large screwdriver on the lip of the > cylinder > > > sleeve > > > > > to > > > > > > > break the sleeve free from the head. Is this a risky > thing > > > to > > > > > try? > > > > > > > Is there any danger with scratching or warping the > cylinder > > > > > sleeve? > > > > > > > I notice there are two little studs at the top of the > > > sleeves, > > > > > near > > > > > > > the center. I would love to just take a screwdriver and > > > pry > > > > > the > > > > > > > sleeve from the head using those as the leverage point. > I > > > read > > > > > that > > > > > > > someone from Canada used a hockey stick to break the > sleeve > > > > > free. > > > > > > > Unfortunately, I don't have one of these right now. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm new to mechanics, but am forced to try this myself > as I > > > want > > > > > to go > > > > > > > camping this summer and the wife is balking at the cost > of > > > > > taking > > > > > > > it to a mechanic. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm really intimidated at having to put the sucker back > > > > > together, but > > > > > > > first I have to make sure that the cylinder sleeves > don't > > > come > > > > > out. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > BTW, do I have to do both heads? I notice that the > > > passenger > > > > > side > > > > > > > exhaust ports are discolored, especially on cylinder > that > > > is > > > > > toward > > > > > > > the front. I suspect that this is the only side that > is > > > leaking > > > > > and > > > > > > > causing my billowing white smoke problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks for any help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Craig > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > Craig Oda craigoda@communitybuilders.info > > > > > > > VW Info: 1983 VW Westfalia, water-cooled, automatic > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > > > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > > > > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > > > > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > > > > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. > > > ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
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