Be sure to centerpunch the stud before you attempt to drill it.  Otherwise,
the drill will slip and get into the metal of the head.   I just took out a
broken stud that is used to secure my lower alternator bracket.  Biggest
problem was I couldn't get straight in on it with the drill, so I opted to
drill at two angles -- first from the right, then from the left --until I
could get a bit of a hole started.  Then I put the flexible extension on my
Dremel and was able to come straight in and bore out the hole.  Once I got
the screw remover in, the stud came out easily.

Took me about two hours, including travel time.  One trip to the hardware
store for a bit "that would cut the hardest material known to man," and one
trip to the auto parts store for a bigger screw remover.

Dave in KC
85 Westy
pictures and description of this task may be found at the following link:

http://members.fortunecity.com/davebaker1/westy/id43.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: Craig Oda - Personal email <craigoda@COMMUNITYBUILDERS.INFO>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 14, 2002 12:52 PM
Subject: Thanks and Broken Stud Removal

> I was planning to take out a broken exhaust stud from my cylinder head
> tomorrow with a drill and easy-out, but heard stories of broken
> easy-outs.
>
> If I try this broken stud removal job myself in the future, how
> difficult is it?  The stud is broken flush with cylinder head in this
> case.
>
> -- Craig