Hello all,

Bently says to line up the the notch on the pulley with the
seperation line in the case for proper timing.  The engine will
not run at this point. I verified that the mark is top dead
center. I have been disabling the idle stabilizer while
checking/setting.

Right now it is running ok with the mark between the 10: 00 -
11:00 position (using a clock as an example). Power seems good,
but idle is sporatic.  It idles best with the idle adjust screw
all the way in to the right; back it out an 1/8 and she dies.

Please tell me where the timing is to be set. I like the clock
metaphor. Also should the idle screw be in this far?  It will
often just die when at light, even though it just idling fine.

Following a review of the work I have done since buying this 45
days ago along with a few notes:

- Repaired/adjusted the off-throttle & full-throttle switch
- Relaced and verified good the 02 sensor
- Replaced one bad header gasket that was leaking
- Repaired leaky AFM to Airbox tube (silicone 'till I can
replace)
- Cleaned the AFM, resealed the cover
- Tested engine temp sensors as good
- plug cables are fairly new and in good shape
- Distributer cap is not pitted bad, cleaned up any pitting
- replaced bad grounds
- Cleaned the engine
- changed oil, anti-freeze, air cleaner is ok (will replace next
trip out), replaced plugs
- Got it to stop hunting at idle by turning the idle screw all
the way in from the being many turns out
- Long-block and tranny have about 55k miles
- Rubber head gasket is soft and I can press my finger nail into
it.
- I pulled non-funtioning cruise control and air conditioning
- Adjusted and greased shifting linkage as I couldn't get into
first
- Plan to do the tantalum cap fix on the AFM as soon as I get my
hands on the cap.
- Camped every weekend I could

I have spent many hours in the achrives and todo sites to get
this far. Please help me get to the next level.  Oh, and I will
be doing my emmission test soon, so will have lots more data!

Thanks for your advise and comments.

Joe