You should try the new ignition switch again now. Just takes a few
minutes to hook up as a test. It may not have helped with the original
starting problem but you have more than that going wrong now. Leave the
new one hooked up during further testing.

The instrument cluster +12 power comes right off the ignition switch.
Before that it comes straight from the battery on one of the red wires
that attach under the battery + clamp nut. Check to make sure it is not
loose or damaged at the battery box.

For testing purposes use the empty relay socket #2 on the relay panel. A
spare male spade connector works great to get into the contacts.

Pin 2 of this relay socket should ALWAYS have +12 volts.
Pin 1 is chassis ground. You should measure +12 between them. If you
have +12 here, both sides of the battery are connected to the main
panel.
 If not, measure from pin 2 to the center of the battery -neg post. If
you have +12 now, the problem is in the battery ground wire in the
battery box.
 If no +12 from relay#2 pin 2 to batter post-neg, the problem is in the
+12 wiring from the battery to the fuse panel. The thick red wire from
the battery clamp nut plugs into the back of the fuse/relay panel.
Remove the panel and check that this red wire is solidly plugged in.

Let me know what the above tests produce and I will help further if
needed.

Mark

Vanagon man wrote:
>
> This van is a 1988  Automatic...........
>.....................
> I pulled it up on ramps to check some other stuff, and I go back in to start it, and nothing. NOTHING.  no LIGHTS, NO POWER AT ALL IN THE FUSEBOX..........NOTHING.    i THEN CHECK THE BATTERY, AND IT HAS 12.5v, and the connections are tight.
>
> WHAT THE?  This is my wife's main ride, and i need it straight by Monday.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Adam P