The permitter seal is the most important, the gap in the seal belongs
above the tranny.
Engines often get a little cat-a-wompus from weak motor mounts and soft
transmission mounts and these seals will leak some around the edges.
The rear seal is the most important because of the heat rising from the
muffler and there should be a heat shield over your muffler screwed to
the engine tin.
The license plate door also has / had a seal that should be in place.
Those little gaps between the block can be sealed by bending your sheet
metal and installing all fasteners.
As for the spark plug seals ............. forget it, I've never seen a
set that sealed properly.
You might find a 1/2" hole in some sheet metal but other than a piece of
metal glued on with contact cement that is about all you can do unless
you use a cork.
The seal around the oil pressure sender is often missing and can be
replaced with a circle disk cut from truck inner tube. (TRUCK Inner tube,
will withstand great heat, bicycle and car size tubes will melt down or
catch fire, yes there is a big difference.)

Stan Wilder

On Tue, 6 Aug 2002 14:54:28 -0400 80 Westy Pokey <pokey@VANAGON.ORG>
writes:
> I was looking at my engine bay this weekend and saw
> noticeable gaps between the engine tin and the engine wall.
> The seal has kind of pulled away from the side. For some
> reason the distance on the passenger side seems greater than
> the drivers side too. My questions are:
>
> 1) There is a small gap between the block and the fan
> housing, is this normal?
>
> 2) How the heck do you replace the seal around the engine?
>
> 3) Do you use a sealant to make sure it stays in place, or to
> seal things that pass through the tin?
>
> 4) I have one small hole (looks like its from an absent
> screw) how should I plug it up?
>
> Thanks,
> Chris
>

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