Thanks for all the info. Ben!  I have a new thermostat, and the van seems to
run at 3/4 high temp.-wise all the time - I've been told they tend to run
hot, but it still makes me a bit nervous - I've already overheated twice
since I bought the Westy 8 months ago.  But you've been a great help as has
many other great folks on the mailing list - this is my first time to really
use it and it has been a great experience - thanks!
Marla

>From: Ben huot <huotx@VIDEOTRON.CA>
>Reply-To: Ben huot <huotx@VIDEOTRON.CA>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Flush & Fill & Fan Switch questions
>Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 18:38:39 -0400
>
>Well, i will repeat myself but it's a pleasure.
>
>From VW America: The normal temp gauge position should be just over the
>light (coolant level light), the fan should kick in a t about 3/4. For an
>2.1L engine, that is with the new 87deg thermostat and the new engine
>temperature sender (the black one in front of the thermostat housing).
>True! I have both, the old and new one (thermo. and sender) (or should I
>say I had, sniff).
>
>On my van:
>Position of needle whit old temp sender and thermostat:
>Normal driving: Needle just below light
>Traffic: Needle just over light, fan kick in and hold temperature just over
>the light or on the light.
>
>Position of needle whit new temp sender and thermostat:
>Normal driving: Needle just over the light.
>Traffic: Needle 3/4 (or a bit more), fan kick in at 3/4.
>
>This proves that the new temp sender (temp gauge) is giving a higher
>reading, about 20%. It doesn't mean that the engine run's hotter.
>The new thermostat also open a bit later than the old one, this will keep
>the engine running a bit hotter.
>
>The thermo switch as nothing to do with the thermostat or the temp sender,
>it's just a switch that goes ON when the rad is too hot.
>
>If you had a defective thermostat (in the close position), the engine would
>be very hot and the front rad cold!!!. So the thermo switch would never
>open because the rad would be cold.
>
>The bleeding of the 2.1L is a lot more easier than I was expecting, if you
>look my site you will see that I did too much for nothing. 10 days ago we
>change the coolant of and 88GL, we didn't even raise the front, but the
>driveway had a good inclination.
>
>If the coolant system is clean and working properly, the rear section
>(mostly the engine section) should auto-bleed in a matter of a few miles
>(10-40). The front section (radiator) will not bleed itself; you need to
>force the coolant (revving the engine at 2000rpm) to this one.
>
>Changing or servicing the coolant: No need to get all the old coolant out,
>if you open the screw under the engine heads you should get about half of
>the old coolant out, that is enough to regenerate the coolant propriety for
>another 2 years. If you want to get some more, simply disconnect one of the
>2 main line (big tube) under the van, you will get another 1/4.
>
>See by bleeding section at:
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/huotx/bleeding.htm
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/huotx/front_radiator.htm
>
>Cheers and good luck, Ben
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/huotx/engine1.htm

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