[2002-08-13 12:23 -0500] joe@cedar.net (joe@CEDAR.NET) wrote:

> My apologies, here, but did I see someone write that the huge
> castle nut does nott need to be removed to service the rear
> brakes? I spent four hours not replacing my rear shoes last
> Saturday, because Bentley said I had to remove these and I
> didn't want to spend the $60+ on tools to get that nut off.
>
> Now I have an appointment to get the rear brakes serviced, but
> would rather handle it on my own.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe

That's right, the drums are held on by the lug bolts, with a single
small retaining bolt for when the lugs are off.  The other things they
are held on by is rust and the wear groove in which the brake shoes
ride.  Once you've got the lugs and the retaining bolt off, the drums
probably will not come off in your hands.  You may have to loosen the
brakes (by using a screwdriver through one of the back-of-the-drum plugs
to move the toothed adjustment wheel).  The drum has a very tight fit
where it meets the bearing hub, and they usually rust together somewhat.
As mentioned below, penetrating oil (WD40 is lousy penetrating oil!) is
helpful.  You will eventually find yourself striking the drums.  Be
careful!  You _can_ warp them.  The next-to-last time I let a mechanic
touch my van (that would be 1989), he warped both rear drums by whacking
on them with a sledge.  I prefer to use a big rubber mallet rather than
a solid steel sledge.

        Gary

> On Tue, 13 Aug 2002, Lawrence Johnson wrote:
>
> > > There 11mm head bolts holding the drums on to the hubs. Remove these and
> > > the drums can come off. They can be good and stuck though if they have
> > > been on there a while. Use a good penetrating oil and hope for the best.
> >
> > Instead of penetrating oil, use a small hand sledge hammer  (mine is 2� lb) and
> > rap it firmly all around the outside of the drum. Angle the sledge slightly
> > outward. Works for me.
> > Larry
> >
>
>
>