First things first: fix the hose.

Then, remove the black plastic cover on the top of the AFM.  Inside
you'll see a spring loaded "lever" (for lack of a better term).  With
the ignition on, rotate the "lever" a bit.  If the double relay is
working, you will hear it click as it applies power to the pump.  If
it's *early* Sunday morning and it's quiet, you may be able to hear the
pump run.  No click? Replace the relay. Click and no fuel pump run?
Remove the belly pan and check for power at the pump. (You'll need a
helper to turn the "lever") No power, replace the double relay. Power
and no pump run? Replace the pump. (BTW, some late Ford pickups use the
identical pump.  Boneyard can save you a few bucks.) Power and pump run
but no go? Replace the fuel filter.

For furure reference, on the left (FIF) fuel rail you will see a little
spud sticking up.  The end of that spud has an 8mm (IIRC) bolt head on
it.  Removing that bolt allows one to check the fuel pressure without
cutting hoses.  When you get the replacement for the hose you cut, get
an extra couple feet of hose. Monday, go to the *real* autoparts store
(NAPA or such) and get a 0-100 psi guage, a hose barb to fit it and a
couple three worm drive clamps. Remove the aforementioned bolt, slip the
piece of hose on and tighten the clamp.  Add the pressure guage and
another clamp and you too can check fuel pressure like the pros do.
It'll cost you less than $20.

Description: as you look at the top of the AFM, you'll see a tiny pair
of contacts. Those contacts are what switches the double relay which
switches the fuel pump on. No airflow, no fuel pump.

Now while you've got that belly pan loose, you might as well pull that
pesky old heater and send it to me for disposal.  Please include all
wiring, relays and switches. We'll make sure that it's put somewhere
where it will cause no further aggravation.

And take that Clymer manual and put it next to the toilet where you
might get some use out of it. Bentley and Haynes <period>

Jim