Hi Todd,

Pedal height is really set by the rear brake adjustment.  But if the pedal
is spongy or if the brakes have limited stopping ability(I have no idea how
you test this safely), then you probably have air somewhere in the system.

The master cylinder is pretty tough to get all the air out of unless you
bench bleed it.  To bench bleed the MC, I mounted the reservoir on the new
MC and then twisted vinyl tubing into the threaded outlet ports and then ran
the ends of the tubing back into the reservoir.  I used a couple of tie
wraps to secure the tubing ends from pulling out of the MC reservoir.  After
filling the reservoir with brake fluid, I then manually pushed the piston in
repeatedly until no air is ejected from the MC ports.

If you hurry this process, you will end up with a lot of bubbles thoroughly
mixed into all the brake fluid in the reservoir,making it difficult to say
that no more air is being still trapped within the MC.  This does take
awhile, so be patient.  Use a pad to cushion your hand as you push on the
piston.  Remember to keep the top of the reservoir level.

Once no more air bubbles are ejected, sequentially quickly disconnect the
vinyl tubes from the MC- pull the ends of the tubing in the MC above the
fluid level in the MC first, so you do not create a siphon- and insert the
plastic plugs that came with the MC.  Loosely mount the MC to the booster
and quickly remove the plugs and attach the brake lines.  It will be
somewhat messy, have a bunch of disposable rags near at hand.  Then bleed
system with your pressure bleeder- LR,RR,RF,LF.

HTH
Helen & Joe Fahy
'87 Westy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Last" <Rubatoguy@MINDSPRING.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 12:04 PM
Subject: brake bleeding question

>
> I'm trying to bleed the brakes on my '88 Vanagon after replacing the
> master cylinder, calipers, rear wheel cylinders, and brake hoses.
> I purchased one of those one-man power bleeders. It has a container with
> an attached pump (think bicycle pump) and a hose connected to a cap that
> replaces the normal top cap on the brake fluid resovour.  You fill the
> container with brake fluid, pump it up to 10-15 psi, and then open the
> bleeders at each wheel and supposedly, all is well.
>
> I went thought the process once, bleeding the wheels in the correct
> order and waiting until a volume of fresh brake fluid came out, however,
> the brakes are still not firm. The pedal sinks down a fair amount before
> the brakes take hold.  So, I'm convinced that I will have to go through
> the bleeding process yet again. I had done my best to prefill the master
> before installing.
>
> Are there any other tricks that anyone can pass on about having a
> successfull brake bleeding ?
>
>
> thanks,
>
>
> Todd
> '88 Westy

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